Vetemens SS25 "Time To Clean Up The Mess"

Despite the star-studded lineup of models, featuring Travis Scott, Gigi Hadid, Law Roach, Heidi Klum, Destroy Lonely, Anok Yai, and others, the overall vibe of the show left a mixed feeling.

Guram Gvasalia dove into the Vetemens archive using the brand's signature motifs, which were seen throughout the whole show, on Gigi's DHL tape look, oversized graphic T-shirts, oversized shoulder-padded suit, and leather jacket looks.

But although it is time to clean up the mess, it is doubtful that another mess isn't imminent in the near future. Some great, nostalgia-filled pieces have been previewed, emulating that 2018-19 look, attempting to revive the brand's openness to experiment. Outmost memorable was Anok Yai's closing white wedding dress look, but more so the walk, no, the run of an indecisive bride. The run, apparently unplanned was later explained by Anok in an Instagram post revealing that it was an improvisation of hers following a wardrobe malfunction.

Relying on classic, fan-favorite silhouettes can be an effective strategy, it is nonetheless a rope that can run out, especially as fans of the brand grow increasingly impatient to see the next step in the brand's evolution. It seems like the brand has tried experimenting in the past few years, producing some memorable looks, especially dresses, and a few other garments, yet to many it seemed like Vetemens's overall collections were simply triple, quadruple XL versions of already oversized garments.

Nevertheless, the retro sentiment of this collection is truly appreciated, as well as the effort and time put into the design of the show. Previewed in Paris, the decor featuring walls filled with surveillance cameras serves as a reminder of the obsessive digital world of today. Also there, was a huge pile of clothes, a reminder of the pollution caused by the industry every day, doubling down on the brand's long-time use of upcycled materials.

A final point to address is the sentiment of the brand's fans as it seems that they are more divided than ever. Some strongly appreciated the latest collection whilst some called on Guram's retirement, a result of opposite expectations. Should Vetemens continue on their traditional design path or risk it and really switch things up?