Tokyo James SS25: The War on Perfection

Tokyo James’ SS25 show in Milan embodied a bold statement in contrast with fashion’s obsession with perfection. The British-Nigerian designer highlights the beauty found in imperfection, featuring deliberately misaligned seams and unconventional elements designed to challenge typical aesthetics found in luxury fashion. The genius theme was at the centre of his message, appealing to the fashion world to embrace the unexpected.

Known in the industry as the ‘Merger of Worlds’, it’s no surprise that a significant element of the collection was the collaboration with UGG and jaiyejaiye.co.uk. With boxes of jollof rice being handed out backstage at Milan Fashion Week, the contrasting atmosphere most certainly mirrored the collection. 

Tokyo James’ SS25 collection was not just a fashion presentation but a philosophical statement. He critiqued the rigid standards of the fashion industry, which often equates luxury with flawlessness. Instead, James embraced the beauty in imperfections, deliberately incorporating them into his designs. Misaligned seams, uneven hems, and quirky tailoring choices dominated the runway, sending a clear message: perfection is overrated. In a conversation backstage, James remarked, “We need to stop pursuing perfection all the time,” a sentiment that became the foundation of the collection’s aesthetic.

One of the key elements of James’ SS25 show was his use of natural, raw materials. The collaboration with UGG played a key role in bringing his vision to life, particularly through the use of raw wood beads that adorned several pieces. These beads, left in their original state, were meticulously chosen to reiterate James’ message that authenticity, not perfection, defines true luxury. The raw texture and irregularity of the wood beads contrasted with the polished looks often seen on runways, creating a tactile experience that felt grounded and real​.

Beyond the clothes, Tokyo James’ presence at Milan Fashion Week carried deeper significance. As one of the few Black designers regularly showing in Milan, James represents a wider movement toward greater inclusivity in the fashion world - i.e. a ‘Merger of Worlds’. While there was a moment when a wave of Black designers entered the Milan scene, James is one of the few who has stood the test of time, continuing to use his platform to advocate for change. His SS25 collection, with its embrace of imperfection, can be seen as a metaphor for the industry’s need to move beyond its obsession with unattainable standards - whether in terms of beauty, talent, or representation​. 

Tokyo James’ SS25 show at Milan Fashion Week was a masterclass in redefining luxury. By embracing imperfections, raw materials, and artisanal craftsmanship, James presented a collection that was visually appealing and profound all at once. His collaboration with UGG added an organic element to the collection, emphasizing the idea that true beauty lies in authenticity rather than in polished, unattainable perfection.