The Secret Geniuses Behind Yeezy: Meet Kanye West's Handpicked Talents, Many of Whom You Didn't Know

Despite many years of trial and error, praise, and controversy, Yeezy remains one of the leading brands in contemporary fashion. It is only possible to stay relevant, innovative, and ahead of the curve for that long by having the best team of creative minds. Therefore, this article seeks to shine light upon the often unnoticed talents handpicked by Ye, who once were or remain the driving force behind the YZY (formerly spelled Yeezy) brand.

This article doesn't seek to diminish any personal success of the mentioned artists, rather it seeks to highlight the successful job said artists had fulfilled as a part of Yeezy and beyond, recognizing Kanye West's eye for talent.

Many of said creatives have gone on to launch their own successful brands or have pivoted to other esteemed positions in fashion, following their so-called boot camp at Yeezy, during which they gained the needed experience in the industry.

Starting with the Been Trill four:

Virgil Abloh

Virgil Abloh is the most established and successful of Kanye West's apprentices. Their collaboration genuinely marked a significant chapter in contemporary fashion history. Kanye West and Virgil Abloh first crossed paths in 2002, when they met at a Chicago print shop. At the time, Abloh was working as an architect and DJ, while Kanye was rapidly rising in the music industry. Their partnership grew when Kanye invited Abloh to join his creative agency, Donda, in 2010, right after they had both interned at Fendi the year prior. Abloh, by then had already worked with Kanye on the cover of Kanye’s album "808s & Heartbreak".

Abloh’s role in Kanye’s creative ventures expanded when he became the artistic director of West’s creative agency, DONDA, in 2010. This position allowed Abloh to influence various aspects of Kanye’s projects, including stage designs, album covers, and merchandise. Virgil was involved in the creation of many iconic hip-hop album covers, including those he did for Kanye like 808s & Heartbreak, My Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy, Watch the Throne, and most notably Yeezus on which he worked alongside Justin Saunders, Joe Perez, and Matthew Williams However, it was mostly his input in the Yeezy brand that truly showcased Abloh’s creative genius.

The DJ collective Been Trill, which Virgil had been a part of threw multiple afterparties and created exclusive merchandise to correspond with Kanye West's Yeezus tour in 2014. This serves as a testament to show that Kanye had kept Virgil around for a long time, involving him in many different design projects apart from the known Yeezy contributions.

When it comes to Yeezy, Virgil Abloh’s contributions were multifaceted. He played a crucial role in the conceptualization and design of the Yeezy Season collections. His architectural background and keen sense of streetwear aesthetics were evident in the minimalist yet innovative designs that characterized Yeezy’s early collections.

Abloh’s involvement extended beyond clothing. He was instrumental in the design of Yeezy footwear, contributing to the development of iconic models such as the Yeezy Boost 350 and Yeezy Boost 750. Abloh’s ability to merge high fashion with streetwear resonated with a broad audience, cementing Yeezy’s status as a leading brand in contemporary fashion. Despite the acclaim of broad audiences, Abloh always built a community around any brand or collaboration he was working on, which was a key to his success. He would also recruit the right talents to work with, as he was a strong believer and enthusiast of collaboration, an art he had mastered that brought the youth and streetwear culture together in a broader perspective.

Throughout his tenure with Yeezy, Abloh’s designs were showcased in several high-profile fashion shows like the Yeezy Season 3 show, held at Madison Square Garden in 2016, where his creative direction helped transform these shows into immersive experiences that transcended traditional fashion presentations.

After his work with Yeezy, Virgil Abloh continued to make significant strides in the fashion industry. In 2012, he founded Off-White, which is a rebrand of his brand Pyrex Vision, a luxury streetwear brand that quickly gained a cult following. Off-White’s distinctive use of quotation marks, zip ties, and industrial aesthetics set it apart from other brands and solidified Abloh’s reputation as a visionary designer.

In 2018, Abloh made history by becoming the first African-American artistic director of Louis Vuitton’s menswear division. Virgil Abloh’s journey from his early days with Kanye West to his later achievements with Off-White, Louis Vuitton, Nike, IKEA, and other collaborators highlights his profound impact on the fashion industry. His ability to bridge the gap between high fashion and streetwear has left an indelible mark on contemporary design.

Virgil is one of a few designers on this list, whose experience of working with Kanye is so broad and full of contributions that it deserves an article of its own. In order not to deviate from the main point of this article, his list of achievements has been summarized more concisely.

Matthew Williams

Williams first connected with Kanye when he was asked to create a jacket for Kanye West's 2007 Grammy Awards performance with Daft Punk, a request he followed through, contributing to the creation of an LED-embedded jacket. The designer's inventiveness impressed West, who invited Williams to join his group. Eventually, Williams transitioned from designing costumes for West to directing videos and opening the studio for West's first fashion brand, Pastelle. After which he continued on working with Kanye under his creative content company DONDA.

Its worth mentioning that Williams allongside Heron Preston, Virgil Abloh and Justin Saunders formed the art and DJing collective Been Trill in 2012 as a result of their friendship with West. On the topic of music, the pair also worked allongside exectuive producing Playboi Carti's "Whole Lotta Red" album, that released in 2020.

After his influential tenure with Yeezy, Matthew Williams continued to make significant strides in the fashion industry. One of his notable ventures was the establishment of his own brand, 1017 Alyx 9SM, named after his daughter Alyx and his birthday, October 17. This brand has become synonymous with innovative design and high-quality craftsmanship.

Williams’s collaboration with Kim Jones, the Artistic Director of Dior Men, marked another milestone in his career. Together, they designed utilitarian buckles for Dior’s Spring/Summer 2019 collection, blending luxury with functionality in a way that only Williams could.

The designer's most notable achievement came in June 2020, when Matthew Williams was appointed as the Creative Director of Givenchy. His tenure at Givenchy was marked by an infusion of his edgy, streetwear-inspired aesthetic into the luxury fashion house’s collections. Williams’s designs for Givenchy often featured bold, utilitarian elements and were quite innovative for their time. Matthew Williams and Givenchy parted ways in January 2024, his time at Givenchy contributed to the modernisation and appeal of the french fashion house to a younger demographic.

Moreover, Williams has an ongoing partnership with Nike, where he brings a high-end edge to the sportswear brand’s classics. This collaboration has resulted in unique and highly sought-after pieces, such as the Nike x Alyx Air Force 1's that reflect Williams’s distinctive aesthetic.

Heron Preston

Heron Preston’s entry into the world of Yeezy was a natural progression of his rising prominence in the fashion industry. By the time he joined Kanye West’s creative team, Preston had already made a name for himself as a key figure in streetwear culture, prodominently due to his involvment in Been Trill alongside Matthew Williams (of 1017 ALYX 9SM), Virgil Abloh (of Off-White), and Justin Saunders.

In 2014 he joined Kanye's creative team as a consultant during the early stages of the Yeezy brand's development. Heron Preston’s role at Yeezy involved being a part of the core creative team that helped shape the brand’s overall aesthetic and messaging, and designing pieces, being involved in everything from concept development to product execution.

After contributing to the success of Yeezy, Heron Preston embarked on a new chapter in his career: launching his own eponymous brand in 2016. Heron Preston launched his self-titled label, with his first collection named “For You, The World,” debuing during Paris Fashion Week in January 2017.

In addition to building his own brand, Heron Preston has engaged in numerous high-profile collaborations that have further cemented his status as a key figure in the fashion industry. One of the most notable collaborations was with NASA in 2018, where he designed a collection that featured the iconic NASA logo alongside his signature industrial aesthetic. Preston has also worked with a variety of brands across different industries, from Nike to Levi’s.

One of Heron Preston’s more recent ventures was his collaboration with fast fashion giant H&M, marking a departure from Preston’s usual work with high-end brands and limited edition drops. Collaborating with H&M allowed Preston to reach a broader audience while maintaining his commitment to sustainability and creativity.

Justin Saunders

Before delving into Justin Saunders’ collaboration with Kanye West and Yeezy, it’s important to explore the origins of Saunders’ creative vision. Born and raised in Montreal, Canada, Saunders started making waves in the early 2000s with his influential blog, JJJJound. Initially launched as a mood board in 2006, JJJJound was an online platform where Saunders curated an eclectic mix of images that ranged from vintage cars to minimalist interiors, mid-century modern architecture, and, of course, fashion, reflecting most importantly Saunders' personal tastes as well as his ability to forecast cultural shifts before they became mainstream.

As stated previously, Justin Saunders was part of the influential collective Been Trill.Similarely to the previously mentioned designers, the success of Been Trill not only solidified Saunders’ reputation as a tastemaker but also helped him forge deeper connections with other creatives in the industry, including Kanye West.

Justin Saunders joined Kanye West's creative team in the mid-2010s, becoming part of Kanye's trusted creative circle. Justin Saunders’ specific contributions to Yeezy are not widely publicized, Saunders has maintained a relatively low profile in the industry, with much of his work behind the scenes. However, based on industry knowledge, collaborations, and Saunders' influence on aesthetic trends, it’s possible to pinpoint some of his general contributions to the Yeezy brand, most importantly minimalism in design, which is a signature element present not only in Yeezy’s footwear lines, but also in later JJJJound collaborations with brands like New Balance, Vans, and Reebok, producing similarly clean and understated designs that echoed said minimalist ethos seen in Yeezy silhouettes.

Further mentioning designers involved in Yeezy footwear:

Steven Smith

Steven Smith is one of the most revered and prolific sneaker designers in the world, with a career spanning over three decades. Known as the “Godfather of Dad Shoes,” Smith’s design innovations have left an indelible mark on sneaker culture. From his early work at New Balance, Reebok, and Adidas to his key role in shaping the aesthetic of Kanye West's Yeezy brand, Smith has consistently pushed the boundaries of sneaker design.

Born in the late 1960s, Smith started his career in the 1980s as a designer for New Balance. His breakthrough design was the New Balance 574, a shoe that became an icon for its perfect blend of style, comfort, and performance, catapulting Smith into the upper echelons of sneaker design. Smith’s resume is filled with highlights, including creating the Reebok Instapump Fury in the mid-1990s, working on notable projects at Nike and Adidas, contributing to sneakers that were both performance-driven and aesthetically groundbreaking.

Smith’s extensive experience, particularly his work with Adidas, eventually led him to Kanye West. Kanye, always on the lookout for talent that could push creative boundaries, admired Smith’s ability to innovate. They first met around 2016, after Yeezy had already started to gain traction in the sneaker world. Kanye was looking for someone who could take Yeezy’s sneaker designs to the next level, and Smith’s established reputation made him the perfect fit.

One of Smith’s most significant contributions to Yeezy was the design of the Yeezy Boost 700, which debuted in August 2017. Often referred to as the “Wave Runner,” the Yeezy Boost 700 played a crucial role in the resurgence of the "dad shoe" trend. Another major contribution by Steven Smith to the Yeezy brand was the Yeezy 500, which debuted in December 2017. This shoe continued Smith’s exploration of chunky, dad-style sneakers, but with a more futuristic and alien-like appearance with a distinct lack of visible branding, emphasizing form and silhouette over logos and labels. One of Steven Smith’s most daring designs for Yeezy came with the release of the Yeezy 450, following the path of leaping into the minimalist alienated future, which was followed shorty after with the infamous, groundgbraking Yeezy Foam Runner.

Smith’s influence can be seen in the way Yeezy has evolved from a sneaker line into a cultural movement that transcends fashion. His work at Yeezy has left a lasting impact on the sneaker industry, inspiring a new generation of designers to take risks. Unfortunately for the always fans of Smith's contributions a recent story from Fast Company claims that Ye had fired Smith sometime in august 2024. The announcement was made little over two years after Smith took over as leader of Donda Industrial Design, the group behind the latest YZY shoe release, the YZY Pods.

Salehe Bembury

Before joining Kanye West’s Yeezy team, Salehe Bembury had already begun making a name for himself in the fashion industry. Bembury's early career involved working for several notable brands, where he honed his skills in footwear design. After graduating from Syracuse University in 2010 with a degree in industrial design, Bembury began his professional journey at Payless, a position that provided him with the opportunity to learn the technical aspects of footwear production. Though it wasn’t the most glamorous job, it was foundational, giving Bembury a deep understanding of how shoes are constructed. After Payless, Bembury moved on to become a footwear designer for Cole Haan, where he worked on the brand's innovative LunarGrand shoe.

His work at Cole Haan caught the attention of the broader fashion world, and it wasn’t long before he was recruited to join the design team at Yeezy at some point in 2015. Salehe Bembury's time at Yeezy was around the Yeezy Season 3 and Season 4 shows. The Yeezy Boost 350 V2 is one of the most iconic sneakers in the Yeezy lineup, and Bembury’s influence can be felt in the shoe’s evolution during his time at the brand, as he contributed to the design refinements that elevated the 350 V2, such as the translucent side stripe and the more streamlined silhouette. The Yeezy Boost 700 is another model that benefitted from Bembury’s design acumen. While Steven Smith,, was the lead architect behind the shoe, Bembury contributed to the overall development of the Yeezy 700 line, particularly in refining the material choices and colorways, as he also did for the Yeezy 500.

After his impactful time at Yeezy, Salehe Bembury moved on to other high-profile roles in the fashion industry such as being appointed the head of sneaker design at Versace in 2017, going on to design footwear silluhetes with New balance and Crocs, with his latest announcement being a collaboration with Puma.

Now on to more recent collaborators and talents behind the Donda era and beyond

Gosha Rubchinsiky

It was at Paris Fashion Week in 2015 that Ye and Gosha first met. Ye was enthralled with Gosha's interpretation of post-Soviet youth culture, references to Russian streetwear and Cyrillic letters. Their shared appreciation of one another's artistic endeavours soon brought them together.

One of the more intimate and lesser-known aspects of their collaboration is Gosha’s role in designing two of Ye’s neck tattoos. These tattoos, which spell out the names of Ye’s sons, are a testament to the deep personal connection between the two artists. Gosha’s design approach ensured that the tattoos reflected Ye’s personal style and reflected the specific vision he had in mind, with the process involving several iterations, with Gosha sketching out different designs and Ye providing feedback until they arrived at the perfect representation.

In 2018, Gosha Rubchinskiy faced significant controversies that threatened to derail his career. Despite the backlash, Ye remained a steadfast supporter of Gosha. He publicly defended Gosha’s character and work, emphasizing the importance of understanding and forgiveness in the creative community. Before Gosha officially joined YEEZY, Ye would frequently wear Gosha’s designs, bringing them into the spotlight and introducing them to a broader audience.

In 2023, Ye made a surprising yet impactful decision by appointing Gosha as the Head of Design for YEEZY. This move underscored Ye’s belief in Gosha’s talent and vision, with Gosha’s input being instrumental in the creation of the “Vultures” merchandise, designed for Ye’s joint album with Ty Dolla $ign. This was then followed by the “Black Dogs” collection in 2024 offering affordable pieces to a wide audience.

In 2024, Ye visited Moscow to celebrate Gosha’s birthday, showing support again. During his visit, Ye also hosted a surprise performance, further solidifying his connection with Gosha and the Russian fashion community. This visit showcases how large of an infuence and impact the Yeezy brand has all over the world.

Betsy Johnson

Betsy Johnson, a name that might not be immediately recognizable to the general public, has become a significant figure in the fashion industry. The specifics of Betsy's work with Kanye West are mostly unknown to the public. Yet, it wouldn't be an outrageous estimation to state that she was involved in shaping the stylistic aesthetic of Ye's clothing choices and latest album rollouts. She had posted pictures from the Mercedes-Benz Stadium listening parties, during Ye's “Donda” album rollout, and was later put in charge of styling the iconic Yeezy Gap campaign, which highlighted her ability to create eye-catching work. It is worth mentioning that at some point both Betsy and Ye had worked closely with Balenciaga, having walked runways for the brand. Betsy Johnson had since met with Ye multiple times, in Milan, Berlin (Shayne Oliver SS25 show), and most recently in South Korea for Ye's Seoul Vultures 2 listening experience.

Mowalola

Mowalola is one of Kanye's more recent collaborators. Mowalola Ogunlesi launched her namesake brand, Mowalola, in 2019, debuting her “Exposed" collection at London Fashion Week that same year.

In a recent interview with Kids Take Over, Mowalola stated that at the time she was completing her Master in Arts degree, she got word from a mutual that Kanye wanted to talk to her. After getting in contact and talking to Ye on the phone, Mowalola visited his Calabasas studio but didn't end up working with Yeezy right away despite being asked multiple times, citing that she wasn't ready. They remained in contact and even though she declined his offer to work for him at the time, she eventually designed looks for North West's birthday celebration in June 2020. In the same interview, Mowalola expands on getting to know Kanye's creative language and continuing to work alongside him.

The most notable piece that came out of her and Ye's collaboration was the Mowalola x Yeezy WET tank top, which was designed by the pair in 2020, right before Kanye requested her assistance on the Yeezy GAP project by her

taking on the role of creative director for the collaboration, which she accepted.

Luka Sabbat

Luka Sabbat has been involved in several projects with Kanye West and the Yeezy brand. Luka walked in Kanye West’s debut collection with Adidas, Yeezy Season One, in 2015, further being featured in various Yeezy campaigns and fashion shows. Luka is known for his creative direction and styling, and while specific details about his work for Yeezy aren’t extensively documented, he can be quoted saying that he had reportedly worked for kanye for free, forever, just to get that experience in the world of fashion. Luka's social media presence and public appearances often showcase his collaborations and friendships with influential figures like Kanye West and Playboi Carti, being photographed with Ye allongside Yung Lean, Asap Nast and Yung Gud at the Donda 2 listening party. Lastly, he was seen with Playboi Carti in Bianca Censori’s (Ye's wife) Toyota truck, during Ye's Vulture's era and Playboi Carti's early rollout stages of I AM MUSIC in early 2024.

Nur Abbas

After graduating from Kingston University's fashion program, Nur Abbas started his remarkable career at Maison Margiela in 2002 as an assistant designer. Due to his talent, he was hired by prominent fashion businesses like Gucci and Louis Vuitton, where he worked as a senior menswear designer for around ten years. His career progressed with a position as head designer of menswear at Uniqlo, where he was instrumental. He later worked for Nike as the design director for Nike ACG, where he was in charge of creative sportswear concepts that combined fashion and function.

In March 2022, Nur Abbas joined Kanye West’s Yeezy brand as the head of design. This newly created position had Abbas working directly with Ye to expand the Yeezy empire. His responsibilities included overseeing special projects and collaborations with Adidas and Gap including the successful Yeezy Gap Engineered by Balenciaga capsule.

Nur Abbas’s eventually departed the brand in late 2023. After leaving Yeezy, Abbas continued to make waves in the fashion industry, taking on new projects and collaborations leveraging his extensive experience and creative prowess to influence contemporary fashion. Abbas continues working with emerging designers and established brands alike, bringing his unique vision to a variety of fashion ventures.

Further on designers that now manage their own fashion labels

Tremaine Emory

Before his time at Yeezy, Tremaine Emory worked at Marc Jacobs, where he gained valuable industry experience and early exposure to high fashion design, that was foundational to his future career.

Both deeply embedded in street culture and music, back in the early days in New York's creative scene Tremaine Emory and Virgil Abloh formed a close bond over their shared vision for pushing the boundaries of fashion and cultural expression. Their friendship flourished as they navigated the overlapping worlds of streetwear and high fashion, collaborating on various projects and ideas. In fact, in a recent interview with Complex, Tremaine mentioned that he was originally called up to work for Yeezy when he was in Milan with Virgil Abloh. Virgil reacted to Tremaine recieving that call by jokingly saying "Guess you gotta go to Jedi school", reflecting on his own time at Yeezy, but also supporting Tremaine by saying "You'll learn a lot" .

Tremaine started off as a creative consultant at Yeezy, sharing his opinion to Ye and assisting with some designs, to later being the creative director of Good Music (Ye's music label) and brand director at Yeezy. As his role expanded, he oversaw various fashion and footwear launches. Emory’s influence was pivotal in shaping the brand’s aesthetic and contributing to several iconic Yeezy designs, mostly for Yeezy Season collections. Emory was also deeply involved in the creative process during Kanye West’s Wyoming sessions, that were not only for music but a creative brainstorming hub. Beyond fashion, Emory’s influence extended to Kanye’s music label, GOOD Music. His creative direction and insights were valuable during the production of several albums released under the label, including Kanye’s own projects and those of other artists associated with GOOD Music.

In 2018, after being fired by Kanye West, Tremaine Emory embarked on a series of ventures in the fashion industry. After leaving Yeezy, Emory was one of the founding members of the artistic collaborative No Vacancy Inn. Throughout this time he collaborated with well-known people like Frank Ocean, A$AP MOB, and Virgil Abloh while throwing private parties and pop-up events. In 2019 Emory started his own clothing line, Denim Tears on the 400th anniversary of the start of slavery in America, the brand unveiled its first line of apparel, which included pieces with themes related to Black history. In 2022 Emory was brought on board as Supreme's creative director. In order to define future collections, he collaborated closely with the creative team and James Jebbia, the brand's founder. On August 31, 2023, Tremaine Emory resigned from his position as creative director at Supreme. Allegations of pervasive racism within the company preceded his resignation.

A public feud between Tremaine Emory and Kanye West started in October 2022 and was centred mostly on the legacy of their mutual friend Virgil Abloh. When Emory accused Ye of taking use of the tragedy for personal gain after Abloh's passing in his public remarks. Additionally, after Ye wore a contraversial "White Lives Matter" T-shirt during the YZY Season 9 runway show in Paris, Emory, the creator of Denim Tears and creative director of Supreme at the time, criticised Ye for his actions. Ye responded by attacking Emory on social media with a string of disparaging comments and attempts to trademark a term "Tremendez".

Greg Ross

Greg Ross’s entry into the world of Yeezy began with a serendipitous encounter. Fresh out of college, Ross was discovered by Kanye West, who was impressed by his unique design perspective. This meeting marked the beginning of a transformative journey for Ross. Kanye’s mentorship provided Ross with an intensive crash course in fashion, exposing him to powerful industry figures and new talents, and helped Ross figure out where in fashion he belonged.

Ross joined Yeezy in 2015, initially as a designer and stylist, with his responsibilities including conceptualizing and developing new collections, working closely with Kanye to bring his visionary ideas to life. Ross’s most know designs at Yeezy are those of Yeezy Season 9 defined by bold minimalism.

After several successful years, Ross left Yeezy in 2021 to pursue his own ventures. His departure was amicable, with both parties expressing mutual respect and admiration. Ross felt it was the right time to explore new opportunities and bring his own creative visions to life. Since leaving Yeezy, Greg Ross has continued to make waves in the fashion industry, by launching his own label, GREG ROSS, in 2019, focusing on sustainable fashion with an emphasis on silhouette, texture, and color inspired by vintage aesthetics. Greg prefers to remain behind the scenes and doesnt show his face much, conveniently his designs speak for him.

Samuel Ross

After studying Graphic Design and Illustration at De Montfort University in Leicester, Ross began his career working as a freelance graphic designer. During this time, he gained a reputation for his bold visuals and innovative ideas. His big break came when his work caught the attention of Virgil Abloh. In 2014, Abloh invited Ross to join him at Off-White, where Ross began working as a design assistant, which allowed Ross to hone his skills in fashion design and exposed him to the high-pressure world of global fashion, but more importantly, it was through Abloh that introduced Ross to Kanye West. Kanye, always on the lookout for new talent to join his creative projects, recognized Ross’s potential and brought him on the Yeezy team in 2015.

One of Ross’s first major projects at Yeezy was contributing to the visual and conceptual direction of the Yeezy Season 3, an pivotal event for the Yeezy brand that blended fashion with performance art on a large scale. While Samuel Ross wasn’t directly credited with designing specific Yeezy sneakers, his input on the color palettes and visual aesthetics for various Yeezy footwear releases cannot be overlooked.

Apart from his work at Yeezy, Samuel Ross began to focus on his own creative endeavors, the biggest one being the launch of his brand A-COLD-WALL* that began as a commentary on the social and economic disparities in Britain, using fashion as a medium to explore class divisions and urban life. The brand’s first runway show in 2017 at London Fashion Week put Ross on the global fashion map with him seing more success in the coming years by winning British Fashion Council’s Emerging Talent Menswear Award in 2018 and the Hublot Design Prize in 2019. In addition to his work with A-COLD-WALL*, the designer has collaborated with several major brands, some of his most notable collaborations being with Nike and Converse where Ross has designed several highly sought-after sneakers such as a Nike Air Force 1 and a Converse Chuck Taylor All Star. He has also become an official Hublot brand embassador in 2020 and went on to collaborate with Oakley.

Eli Russell Linnetz

The dynamic and creative partnership between Eli Russell Linnetz and Kanye West started when Kanye invited Linnetz for a one-year artist residence at his DONDA creative agency after discovering him during his college years.

Linnetz was able to establish himself as a major figure in the Ye universe because to this chance, which led him to contribute his distinct visual aesthetic to the "Fade" and "Famous" music videos, by directing them. Allongside Ye and Spike Jonze, Eli directed the music video for Ye and Lil Pump's hit I LOVE IT. He also created the Saint Pablo tour's floating stage and merchandise, which turned into a key component of the tour's visual identity. Eli helped design Ye's "Kids See Ghosts" album cover allongside Takashi Murakami and took part in designing the "Ye" album cover. Eli had also worked on creative direction and design of several Yeezy collections, specifically the yeezy 500.

Eventually, Linnetz moved on from Yeezy to work on his own artistic endeavours. He started his own clothing line, ERL, which became well-known right away for its retro, candy-colored interpretation of California streetwear. The fashion world has praised his work with ERL, and he is still working with other prestigious designers and companies.

Shayne Oliver

Ye and Shayne Oliver have shared a dynamic and influential friendship over the years, marked by mutual respect and creative collaboration. Their relationship began in the early 2010s, with both artists recognizing each other’s groundbreaking work in fashion, Kanye with Yeezy and Shayne wih Hood By Air. This bond has only strengthened over time, leading to several notable collaborations and public support for each other’s projects.

A memorable moment in their friendship was captured in a photograph taken at Yeezy Season 3 in Paris (The first picture above). This image, which circulated widely in the fashion community, symbolized their collaborative spirit and mutual admiration. While Shayne Oliver did not officially work on Yeezy Season 3, his influence and the shared aesthetic between the two designers was evident, as was their support.

As did many people mentioned in this article, Shayne Oliver also shared a deep and impactful friendship, rooted in their mutual respect and admiration with late designer Virgil Abloh. Both designers were at the forefront of redefining contemporary fashion, and their paths often crossed in the industry. Abloh, known for his work with Off-White and as the artistic director of Louis Vuitton’s menswear, often spoke highly of Oliver’s innovative approach to design. They supported each other’s projects and frequently collaborated on various initiatives, blending their unique styles to create groundbreaking work. Oliver’s tribute to Abloh following his untimely passing in 2021 highlighted the profound impact Abloh had on his life and career. He described Abloh as a visionary and a trailblazer, whose legacy would continue to inspire future generations of designers.

In 2019, in a notable interview for Interview Magazine, Ye sat down with Shayne Oliver to discuss his career, inspirations, and the future of fashion. During the conversation, Oliver spoke about his journey from founding Hood By Air to becoming a key figure in the fashion industry. He emphasized the importance of pushing boundaries and staying true to one’s vision, a philosophy that both he and Ye share. Ye praised Oliver’s fearless approach to design and his ability to challenge the status quo.

Although much later, Shayne Oliver played a significant role in the development of Yeezy Season 9, despite the quality and acclaim of this collection being often overshadowed by Ye's "White Lives Matter" t-shirt controversy. Known for his avant-garde approach and innovative designs, Oliver helped make this yeezy collection feel different. The collaboration was a testament to the synergy between Ye’s visionary ideas and Oliver’s cutting-edge design sensibilities.

As of the writing of this article, Shayne Oliver's main projects and collaborations are produced under one of his brands under the Shayne Oliver Group, which encompasses several distinct brands, each with its own unique identity:

Shayne Oliver: This is the most high-end label under the group, focusing on conceptual luxury fashion.

Anonymous Club: A collaborative, project-based collective that supports emerging talents and helps realize their visions through various mediums.

As Seen by Shayne Oliver (ASSO): A label dedicated to elevated and twisted basics, offering a fresh take on everyday wear.

Oliver’s collaborations have further cemented his status as a leading designer. His partnership with UGG resulted in a collection that combined comfort with high fashion, the collaboration with Jean Paul Gaultier was another highlight, blending Gaultier’s iconic style with Oliver’s avant-garde approach.

In the summer of 2024, Ye showed his unwavering support for Shayne Oliver by attending his show in Berlin. This event was a major highlight in the fashion calendar, showcasing Oliver’s latest collection under his own label. As Ye’s presence does, it not only underscored their friendship but also highlighted his endorsement of Oliver’s work. The show was a resounding success, recieving praise from fans and critics.

Dingyung Zhang

Dingyun Zhang was born and raised in Beijing, China, before moving to London to pursue his studies in fashion. He attended the prestigious Central Saint Martins, where he developed his expertise in textile and fashion design. His graduate collection, which focused on innovative puffer jackets, caught the attention of the fashion world, which led to Kanye being introduced to Zhang’s work through mutual connections in the fashion industry.

Dingyun Zhang officially joined the Yeezy team in late 2019, with Zhang’s work at Yeezy being primarily focused on developing the brand’s outerwear and introducing new technical elements to the clothing line. The designers significant contributions to Yeezy include the development of Yeezy Season 8, which was unveiled in March 2020 during Paris Fashion Week, marking a significant shift in Yeezy’s approach to outerwear, with a focus on avant-garde design elements, whilst retaining the brand's minimalist concepts. The oversized puffer jackets in Yeezy Season 8 were a direct reflection of Zhang’s design philosophy. These jackets were designed to be both functional and aesthetically striking, utilizing advanced materials and experimental quilting techniques. The designer was also heavily involved in the design of the infamous Yeezy Foam RNNR. Dingyun Zhang played a crucial role in the development of the Yeezy GAP collaboration, particularly in outerwear designs, creating the Yeezy Gap Round Jacket, which was released in 2021.

After nearly two years at Yeezy, Dingyun Zhang left the team in early 2021 to focus on his own brand and pursue new creative opportunities. Later that same year, Zhang was invited to collaborate with Moncler as part of the brand’s Genius project, which brings together different designers to create unique, cutting-edge collections. The collection was praised for its futuristic approach to outerwear and solidified Zhang’s reputation as one of the most innovative designers in the industry. Zhang has also collaborated with other brands, such as Adidas, Birkenstock and Marni, bringing his unique perspective to a wider audience.

Dylan Richards and Seb Hunt

Dylan Richards and Seb Hunt, both hailing from New Zealand, initially connected online during the peak of Tumblr. Their shared passion for fashion led them to collaborate on various creative projects, eventually moving to Los Angeles in 2015. It was there that they were scouted to work with Kanye West as "ghost creatives" for Yeezy.

During their time at Yeezy, Dylan and Seb played a crucial role in shaping the brand's aesthetic. They were instrumental in the development of several iconic pieces, including the Yeezy Boost 750 and the Wave Runner 700 and were involved in Yeezy Season 2,3,4 and 6 shows. Their work often involved blending practical workwear with sleek minimalism, a style that became synonymous with the Yeezy brand. A lesser known fact about the due was their contribution to the introduction of the slightly-shredded, oversized hoodie paired with thick bomber jackets, crafting the "perfect hoodie" and forseeing a big streetwear trend.

After their tenure at Yeezy, Dylan and Seb founded their own fashion label, Entire Studios, in 2020. Entire Studios focuses on accessible luxury and high-quality, simple designs. Their first collection was an instant sell-out. Despite the challenges of working from different continents—Dylan in Los Angeles and Seb in New Zealand—they continue to release designs that cater to a global audience, thanks to the support from many celebrities they use to style.

Continuing about some long time friends and collaborators of Kanye West

Ibn Jasper

Ibn Jasper and Kanye West, have shared a long and influential relationship that has significantly impacted both the music and fashion industries.

Their collaboration began when they met in Chicago, with Kanye being just 18 years old. Their mutual passion for fashion and creativity quickly bonded them, leading to a fruitful partnership that spanned many years. Jasper’s influence is evident in several of Kanye’s iconic projects. For the “Stronger” music video, Jasper was deeply involved in the styling and overall aesthetic, contributing to its futuristic and anime-inspired visuals, similarly playing a crucial role in the visual direction of the “Runaway” short film, helping to craft its minimalist and iconic style. In terms of album covers, Jasper had a hand in the creative process for “Graduation,” which featured artwork by Takashi Murakami and in the conceptualization of the “808s & Heartbreak” cover. He was involved in the debut Yeezy Season 1 fashion show and in the planning and execution of the Yeezy Season 3 show, which doubled as the listening party for Kanye’s album “The Life of Pablo.”

The exact details of Jasper’s departure from Yeezy are not widely publicized, he eventually moved on to pursue his own creative projects. Despite this, he continues to be a respected figure in the fashion and creative industries, leaving a lasting legacy through his work with Kanye.

Finally, touching on designers involved with Kanye's first-ever brand, Pastelle.

Don C

Don C and Kanye West’s friendship dates back to their time in Chicago, where they both grew up. Don C started as Kanye’s tour manager and quickly became a trusted advisor and collaborator. Their relationship is built on mutual respect and a shared vision for creativity and innovation.

In the mid-2000s, the group consisting of Kanye, Virgil Abloh, Don C, Taz Arnold, Chris Julian, and Fonzworth Bentley were photographed outside the Comme des Garçons Homme show in Paris. This trip for the group was pivotal in shaping their careers and solidifying their presence in the fashion industry. During their time in Paris, they attended fashion shows, networked with industry insiders, and absorbed the city’s rich fashion culture. This experience was instrumental in their development as designers and entrepreneurs. It was also during this period that they began to conceptualize and work on projects like Pastelle and later, Yeezy. Their time in Paris was not just about learning, it was also about making a statement regarding their commitment of breaking into the high fashion world. The break soon followed with Kanye's Louis Vuitton collaboration, in which Don C along with Virgil Abloh, played a crucial role in supporting Kanye.

Don C played a pivotal role in shaping Pastelle’s early aesthetic. He worked closely with Kanye and other collaborators like Virgil Abloh and Ibn Jasper to create a brand that was likely simply ahead of its time. Don C’s contributions to Yeezy are also significant, including various aspects of the brand, from design to marketing.

After his work with Kanye West on Yeezy and Pastelle, Don C has continued to make his mark in the fashion and entertainment industries, most notably through the foundation of his own luxury streetwear brand, Just Don.

Touching in more detail on designers involved with Kanye's first-ever brand, Pastelle.

Emma Hedlund and Saif Bakir

Emma Hedlund and Saif Bakir, the creative minds behind CMMN SWDN, first crossed paths with Kanye West through mutual connections in the fashion industry.

Their meeting came at a pivotal time when Kanye was looking to establish himself in the fashion world. Impressed by their approach and design sensibilities, Kanye brought them on board for his first fashion venture, Pastelle. During their time with Pastelle, Hedlund and Bakir played crucial roles in shaping the brand’s aesthetic. They worked closely with Kanye, contributing to the development of unique and forward-thinking designs that aimed to blend streetwear with high fashion.

Although at that time Pastelle never officially launched, the collaboration was a significant learning experience for all involved and helped set the stage for Kanye’s future fashion projects, including the highly successful Yeezy line. Their involvement with Kanye also helped Hedlund and Bakir gain valuable insights and exposure in the fashion industry, which they later channeled into their own brand, CMMN SWDN. This experience not only solidified their reputation as talented designers but also highlighted the importance of creative collaboration in the fashion world.

Ian Connor

Ian Connor's relationship with Kanye West can be traced back to around 2014. Kanye had always had a keen eye for young talent, often pulling from the streets and online subcultures to find creatives who could bring fresh perspectives to his projects. Connor's connection to Kanye also came through Virgil Abloh, a longtime collaborator and friend of Kanye. Abloh, who had been in a way guiding Kanye’s forays into fashion, was aware of the younger generation’s obsession with streetwear and knew of Connor's rising status in that world. Through mutual circles and shared connections in the fashion industry, Connor eventually found himself working with Kanye.

Ian Connor’s influence on the Yeezy brand, while sometimes understated, is significant. Although he was never officially titled as a designer, Connor operated as a “muse” or creative consultant during the development of Yeezy, particularly from Yeezy Season 1 through Season 3. He was part of a circle of young creatives—often referred to as the “Kanye West think tank”—which included names like Virgil Abloh, Matthew Williams, and Luka Sabbat, who were instrumental in shaping the brand's aesthetic.

Connor’s role at Yeezy was multifaceted. He wasn’t just a model or influencer—he was a bridge between Kanye and the underground streetwear scene, providing insight into what the younger demographic wanted. Connor’s input on sneaker designs, particularly on how the shoes would resonate with youth culture, was invaluable to Kanye.

One notable appearance of Ian Connor in Kanye’s orbit was during the Yeezy Season 3 show. This event was a major cultural moment, combining a fashion show with the debut of Kanye's The Life of Pablo album. Connor, along with a host of other models and influencers,was part of the performance, standing stoically in Yeezy gear as the music played. His presence there wasn’t just as a model but as a representation of the youth culture that Yeezy had tapped into, he was also partially in charge of the scouting and selection of models for the show, being the one who put the then unknown Lil Yachty on that big stage.

Before Yeezy, Kanye West had another fashion venture known as Pastelle, a brand that never fully came to fruition but has since gained a near-mythical status in the fashion world. While Connor’s involvement in Pastelle came after the brand had effectively been shelved, his association with it is worth noting because of his fascination with its legacy.

Pastelle was initially teased around 2008, with Kanye wearing early pieces at various public appearances. The brand was intended to merge streetwear with high fashion, featuring vibrant colors, oversized fits, and graphic elements—a precursor to the aesthetic Kanye would later perfect with Yeezy. In later years, Ian Connor was spotted wearing rare Pastelle pieces and went on to reference Pastelle in interviews and social media, highlighting its impact on his own style. His wearing of vintage Pastelle items played into his own mythology, connecting him to the legacy of Kanye’s early forays into fashion and showing that he was part of a select group of insiders who had access to this rare, unreleased apparel. In recent years, Ian Connor has been instrumental in reviving Pastelle. Connor, who has a strong background in fashion and has worked closely with Kanye and Virgil Abloh, has taken on the role of creative director for the brand. His vision aims to blend the original concepts of Pastelle with modernized silhouettes and now updated designs. Connor’s influence is evident in the brand’s new direction, which seeks to honor the legacy of Kanye and Abloh while introducing fresh ideas to the streetwear scene.

Ian Connor’s presence on social media has always been a crucial part of his brand and his persona. Platforms like Twitter and Instagram served as his main outlets for expression, through which he had built a core cult-like fanbase and Kanye West’s endorsement of Connor only amplified his reach. Connor often posted photos of himself in Yeezy gear, unreleased sneakers, and exclusive fashion pieces, showcasing his close connection to Kanye. These posts helped to cement his reputation as one of the key figures in Kanye’s creative circle. However, Ian Connor’s social media presence has also been controversial. In 2016, around the height of his influence within the Yeezy camp, Connor was accused of sexual assault by multiple women. These allegations cast a shadow over his career and led to significant backlash, both online and within the fashion industry. Kanye West, known for sticking by his inner circle through difficult times, did not publicly sever ties with Connor, though the young influencer’s role in Kanye’s projects seemed to diminish following the allegations.

In the years following his work with Kanye West at Yeezy, Ian Connor continued to make waves in the fashion world, albeit in a more independent capacity. His influence extended into his own brand, Sickö, which combined punk, grunge, and streetwear aesthetics. Sickö, which launched in 2018, became a cult favorite, known for its graphic tees, distressed fabrics, and edgy, rebellious vibe. The brand encapsulated much of Connor’s personal style—raw and unapologetic.

For those readers who made it thus far, to conclude this article, here are some snapshots of creatives who have been Ye supporters and confidants, whose extent of collaborative efforts isn't as well known or heavily publicized. Some of whom are established designers, and some upincomers ready to break through, that you should be on the lookout for. This final section also mentions some people who simply benefited from the exposure of working with Ye.

Bloody Osiris

Kanye and Harlem-born fashion maverick Bloody Osiris first seen together in 2016 during the preparations for Ye’s YEEZY Season 3 show at Madison Square Garden, a show for which Bloody Osiris modeled. He's mentioned to be on board of the relaunch of Kanye's first ever brand Pastelle allongside Ian Connor and Christian Azzinaro. Bloody has also been seen at ComplexCon 2023, where new Pastelle pieces were previewed as well as modeling for the Yeezy Gap campaign showing off the YZY SHDZ, that unfortunately never released.

ASAP Bari

Ye's close confidant and friend that he supported even during times of contoversy and despair, credited with connecting Ye with many talented artists from different backgrounds. Ye often reaches out to Bari for reasurrance regarding styling and design as he did for the Vultures album cover.

ASAP Nast

Nast has been seen around Ye multiple times, has reportedly recorded music with him and has been in Ye's camp in 2018, visiting him in Calabasas. Nast was also present at a few of Ye's album listening parties.

Guillermo Andrade

Kanye West has been a supporter of Guillermo and his brand 424inc and was seen attending the grand opening of Guillermo Andrade’s new 424 flagship store on Melrose Place in Los Angeles and has also been seen wearing pieces from the brand. The two have been seen together frequently, indicating a strong professional relationship and shared interests in fashion innovation. In addition, Guillermo has often posted conversations and pictures of him working alongside or sharing thoughts with Ian Connor, Ye's long-time collaborator and advisor.

Alexander Digenova

Similar to Guillermo Andrade, Alexander has been often spotted together with Ian Connor, who we can assume is responsible for connecting the designer to Ye, which led to Ye co-signing Alexander's brand and modeling in his signature bomber.

 Kerwin Frost

Kanye West and Kerwin Frost first met through the vibrant streetwear scene in New York City and somebody eventually connected them. Their relationship grew as Kerwin became involved in various projects with Ye, including the coverage of the 2018 Kardashian-Jenner-West Christmas Party. He also documented Ye's Wyoming listening parties for the “Ye” and the “Kids See Ghosts” albums., as well as presenting Ye's and Drake's Free Larry Hoover concert in LA. His presence and manner of hosting always added a unique and entertaining element to these events, making them memorable for attendees. Additionally, Kerwin was once styled by Kanye West in 2019 and has been a good friend and collaborator of Virgil Abloh and Heron Preston. Kerwin is mostly known for his interviews on his YouTube show Kerwin Frost Talks, with guests such as Tyler, the Creator, ASAP Rocky, SZA, Lil Yachty, and others.

Laura Beham and Callum Pidgeon

In a recent show of support, Ye has publicly endorsed the innovative work of Laura Beham and Callum Pidgeon, the creative minds behind the Zurich-based brand Prototypes.ch. In a highly anticipated appearance, Ye attended the Prototypes.ch Spring/Summer 2025 show during Paris Fashion Week. Ye, accompanied by his wife Bianca Censori, made a striking entrance at the event, held on June 20, 2024, both dressed in bold, avant-garde outfits and cosigned the brand appearing backstage as well as trying on some of the new collection. For context, the SS25 collection drew inspiration from the world of Ultras, the passionate and often controversial soccer fans. Also, a few items from the collection included re-designed Yeezy x Gap pieces. Allegedly the duo worked for Yeezy at some point and are responsible for producing many of Bianca Censori's outfits. With their move to Paris, Beham and Pidgeon were poised to make an even greater impact on the global stage, and Ye’s endorsement significantly boosted their profile.