The Protest Shoe

"Why the Air Max Is More Than a Sneaker for a Generation on the Margins"

June 2023 Paris Riots. Photography: Anaïs Lukaku

In France, they’re calling them les requins, the sharks.

Not for their bite, but for the silhouette, low-slung and menacing: Nike TNs. The Air Max Plus is ubiquitous in the banlieues, worn by drill artists, runners, dealers, school kids. And lately: protesters.

On a sweltering evening in June 2023, Parisian streets ignited. The killing of 17-year-old Nahel Merzouk by police catalysed days of unrest. Amid burning cars, shattered glass, and tense lines of riot police, a detail caught global attention: countless youth surging over barricades or returning tear gas wore Nike trainers, predominantly the Air Max Plus, widely known simply as "TN."

In photo after photo, the TN’s wavy, unmistakable lines stamped a visual identity on the chaos, inadvertently symbolising a generation’s exasperation. Even amidst looted boutiques (including a Nike store in central Paris) these trainers became not just practical footwear but visual shorthand for resistance.

People look at burning tyres blocking a street in Bordeaux,, south-western France on late June 29, 2023, during riots and incidents nationwide after the killing of a 17-year-old boy by a police officer's gunshot following a refusal to comply in a western suburb of Paris. (Photo by PHILIPPE LOPEZ/AFP via Getty Images)

The Air Max Plus first emerged in 1998, initially gaining popularity across France’s suburbs not through activism, but aspiration. Its unique design, all sweeping curves and translucent air bubbles, became an icon among banlieue youth, offering both aesthetic appeal and an air of assertive individuality. A badge of belonging, yes, but also one of quiet rebellion.

Yet, how did a shoe born from commercial intent become emblematic of youth frustration and political dissent? The answer lies partially in aesthetics, partially in accessibility, and largely in what these shoes represented to the communities adopting them. Banlieue style historically weaves visibility with defiance; the flamboyant Air Max Plus perfectly suited that ethos. Visible Air units were symbolic transparency, unapologetic visibility for groups frequently marginalised.

The association of sneakers with subcultural identity isn't uniquely French, of course. London's grime scene, New York’s hip-hop circles, and the UK's football casuals all tell parallel stories of trainers as symbols of cultural resistance. Still, France’s connection feels uniquely potent, fuelled by decades of socio-political tension between the state and suburban youth.

During the 2005 riots, sparked by the deaths of two teenagers fleeing police in Clichy-sous-Bois, similar visual threads appeared. Trainers, particularly Nikes, were omnipresent, their symbolism not yet fully understood but increasingly evident.

Nearly two decades later, the recurrence is stark: The TN's remains a loaded symbol, traversing fashion, identity, class, and confrontation.

To grasp why a pair of Nikes surfaced at the epicentre of French protests, one needs to journey into the banlieues: the working-class suburbs surrounding cities like Paris and Marseille.

It was within these suburbs that the Nike Air Max truly embedded itself in youth culture. Released in 1998, the Air Max Plus was swiftly adopted by suburban teenagers who dubbed it “la Requin” ("the Shark"), inspired by its dynamic form and gill-like detailing.

Distinctive for its vivid colour gradients and striking contours, the Air Max Plus was unlike anything seen before. Initially priced steeply around 1,000 francs (approximately €150) and stocked exclusively at selected Foot Locker outlets, its scarcity only amplified its appeal. Photographer Julien Boudet remembers the sneaker's debut vividly: “I was 14 when it first appeared... it was literally revolutionary.”

Young devotees of French hip-hop culture, clad in Lacoste tracksuits and caps, swiftly elevated the shoe into an essential statement piece, ultimately giving rise to the iconic "Lacoste TN" look.

Rapidly, the TN evolved into a symbol of identity within these neighbourhoods. A French novelist aptly captured its significance, observing that wearing a pair of Nike Air Max allowed banlieue youth to communicate “an identity simultaneously validating and universally recognisable,” without uttering a single word.

Over the years, what began as mere fashion evolved into an understated emblem of outsider pride. The Air Max TN, alongside models like the Air Max 95, 90, and BW, became staples in banlieue life, worn by youths playing football in housing estate courtyards, older siblings astride worn-out mopeds, and sometimes by those targeted as troublemakers by sensationalist tabloids.

By the early 2000s, a uniform emerged: black TNs paired with hoodies, becoming synonymous with "les racailles," a term loaded with prejudice and stigma. This association grew strong enough that some nightclubs reportedly barred entry to anyone wearing Air Max trainers.

Yet, the banlieue community fiercely reclaimed these shoes, turning stigmas into symbols of pride and resilience. The Nike Air Max became their footwear, integral to an identity frequently marginalised or feared by mainstream French society. Unsurprisingly, whenever confrontations with authority erupted, be it the riots of Clichy-sous-Bois in 2005 or the Nahel protests of 2023, these sneakers prominently appeared, almost as essential protest gear.

In France, a pair of Nike Air Max holds significant cultural weight. Visibility is fundamental: Air Max designs, bold by nature, showcase large, conspicuous air bubbles and unapologetic styling, perfectly aligning with the aspirations of young people eager for recognition. Sociologists have noted that for marginalised youth, wearing instantly recognisable brands can restore a sense of dignity and social presence.

In low-income suburbs, a pristine pair of Air Max offers status where conventional avenues, steady employment, societal respect, are limited or entirely blocked. As one sociological study described it, these trainers serve as a “non-verbal declaration of a valorising identity,” an unspoken yet assertive affirmation of self-worth amidst external dismissal.

The pronounced Nike Swoosh and distinctive "Tn" branding function as visual punctuation, exclamations rather than subtle marks. Historically, subcultural groups have consistently preferred clothing with overt logos for their immediate impact. During the early 2000s in cities like Paris and Marseille, teenagers deliberately selected brands such as Nike, Lacoste, and Sergio Tacchini precisely for their visible logos, employing fashion as a deliberate projection of their identity. The Air Max, proudly displaying its technological features and brand prominence, naturally embodied this ethos.

It's little surprise that the Triple Black iteration of Air Max models holds enduring appeal. Completely black from sole to laces, the design conveys a sense of quiet confidence and resilience. One sneaker-focused website describes the black Air Max Plus as possessing a "rebellious, assertive style," suited perfectly for those who prefer their personality to remain subtly pronounced.

In the 2023 protests, demonstrators frequently chose dark attire, including black Air Max trainers. Beyond practical considerations like evading identification, this uniform established a collective identity. The Triple Black Air Max, significantly popular on resale markets across Europe, captures the profound cultural resonance and demand among younger generations. For those facing systemic racial profiling, employment discrimination, and state violence, these trainers become symbolic armour: practical for swift escapes, aesthetically cohesive for solidarity, and emblematic of steadfast defiance.

June 2023 Paris Riots. Photography: Anaïs Lukaku

As the 2023 riots simmered down after a week of unrest, the imagery of those nights left an indelible impression.

Amidst the charred debris and graffiti declaring “Justice pour Nahel,” the scuffed Nike Air Max TNs also told a story. They spoke of a generation united not just by rage, but by a shared culture.

These were the children of immigrants from North and West Africa, of French working-class families; groups that have often felt sidelined, and they were literally wearing their identity on their feet. The Air Max, a product of global capitalism and pop culture, had been subverted into a symbol of grassroots resistance.

Observers have since noted how fitting it was that a Nike sneaker; famously marketed with the slogan “Just Do It” , became part of the uniform of youths who just did it, who took action into their own hands when they felt justice was denied.

In the aftermath, Nike’s sales likely didn’t suffer; if anything, the cultural cachet of the Air Max grew. (Recent data shows certain models like the TN “Triple Black” remain top sellers on secondary markets, underscoring their enduring appeal.)

It’s a reminder that fashion can become flag, intentionally or not, in times of social turmoil. The Nike Air Max may have started as a running shoe from Portland and a coveted item on Paris sneakerheads’ wishlists, but in today’s France it’s something more profound. It’s le soulier de la résistance, the shoe of resistance.

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