Christvie Mvioki

The Cultural History of the Congolese Fashion Identity

All fashion enthusiasts are at the edge of their seats with the buzz and excitement centered around Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2024 being right around the corner. The city of lights will be illuminated this January to welcome iconic looks from legendary fashion houses like Louis Vuitton, Armani, and Yves Saint Laurent on the runway. Amid the glitz and glam, in both the Democratic Republic of Congo and the Republic of the Congo there is a fashion trend that takes front stage in the country’s what is known as Sapologie. The vibrant and cultural spirit of ‘La Sape’, which roughly translates to dressing with flamboyance, showcases the beauty of DRC, which is often overshadowed by the dark history of conflict, corruption, and violence-ridden in the eastern region of the country.

Sapologie is a niche fashion subculture that transforms every garment into a vivid representation of heritage, individuality, and unabashed self expression. The movement of La Sape (which stands for la Société des Ambianceurs et Personnes Elégantes) can be traced back to the early 1920s in Kinshasa and Brazzaville as a subtle form of activism. In efforts to challenge colonial superiority servants began to dress themselves like their masters. As times progressed, Congolese men who were exposed to European garms picked up the dress-to-impress notion and adopted their remix creating the Sapeur culture. The fashion subculture draws from traditional Congolese attire with a blend of modernity. The obsession with fashion houses like Jean Paul Gaultier, colourful suits, crocodile shoes, bright fedora hats, and beautiful canes just to name the least is some of the cultural richness that comes with the subculture and its visual language. Most recently, many Congolese people have emigrated to European countries like France and Belgium and cities like London which were called le Mikilistes, which saw an influx in Sapeur culture. The amplification of Sapologie that is known today can be credited to many of these men; the showy haircuts, the flair in the way they speak, and how a Sapeur walks and carries themselves all serve the purposes of the symbol of defiance in the face of adversity. Being able to bring a piece of home with them to a foreign place, brought a sense of comfort. The focus on spending frivolous amounts of money on luxury clothing is the risk these fashion fanatics are willing to pay. Some can even define La Sape as an obsession with the difficulties of quitting. But to the Sapeurs this personal sacrifice is money well spent.

No conversation about Sapologie can ever be made without the mention of the known pioneer of La Sape society. The late Congolese rumba musician Papa Wemba was responsible for popularising this fashion subculture in Europe. He had said that La Sape is like a religion, la religion kitendi. The people called him le Pape de La Sape (the father of Sapologie). He believed that music and fashion were inseparable elements of cultural expression and revealed his passion for the aesthetic. Other artists like Koffi Olomide, JB Mpiana, and Werrason all have iconic Sapeur outfits that showcase the unique beauty of the style. Congolese people love to wear their best outfits regardless of the occasion, from weddings to christening ceremonies, from head to toe you can bet a Sapeur is clothed in their brand new outfits.

In Western media, examples of Sapologie can be seen in Solange’s hit record Losing You music video. Likewise in Kendrick Lamar’s All the Stars music videos, a range of saupers are also featured.

Sapologie is more than a simple fashion movement; it is a societal phenomenon that pushes us to reconsider how we perceive and express ourselves through the clothes we wear. Fashion becomes a language in the hands of Sapologists celebrating the beauty that results in blending traditional with contemporary styles of fashion.