Selah: Wales Bonner AW25

For AW25, Grace Wales Bonner exchanged the grandeur of the runway for the intimacy of the artist’s studio—a place imbued with ritual, focus, and quiet reverence. Here, the collection unfolded as a meditation on creation itself, the raw energy of craft delicately balanced with the elegance of the finished form. It was a collection steeped in devotion, not just to materials but to memory, heritage, and community.

At its core were utility silhouettes rendered in rich indigo-dyed fabrics, their workmanlike strength offset by the softness of corduroy accents. The outerwear was robust yet refined: Italian leather and Japanese canvas coats secured with glinting gold lock closures spoke to the interplay between the practical and the precious. Meanwhile, knitwear, seemingly mended and darned by hand, carried that hint of humanity—a reminder that imperfection is the true mark of craftsmanship.

The collection’s heart was found in a collaboration with Chicago-based artist Theaster Gates. His ongoing project, The Black Image Corporation, served as a thematic anchor, bringing the archives of the Johnson Publishing Company to vivid life. Gates's reverence for the photographic legacy of Ebony and Jet magazines—through the lens of Moneta Sleet Jr. and Isaac Sutton—manifested in denim jacquards and cobalt blue overdyes. These garments, shimmering with bold imagery, celebrated Black creativity as both an enduring cultural force and a source of glamour.

Wales Bonner’s signature tailoring was present as ever, now reimagined with a sumptuous edge. Classic black, deep brown, and grey mélange suits were elevated by navy velvet lapels, while suede flats with metal studs and a gleaming gold reissue of the Jewel Mary Jane lent an air of decadence to the otherwise utilitarian aesthetic.

Further layers emerged through the continued Adidas Originals by Wales Bonner collaboration, which explored the intersection of sport and luxury. Tailored tracksuits were crafted with exquisite precision, and leather bowling bags deftly bridged function and elegance. These pieces underscored the collection’s ethos: everyday garments elevated to the level of art, imbued with intention and meaning.

What Wales Bonner achieved this season was a love letter to artistry itself. The rhythms of making—seen in hand-dyed fabrics, archival prints, and masterful tailoring—spoke to the enduring importance of craft as a vessel for cultural storytelling. Grace Wales Bonner reminded us that fashion, at its best, holds space for history, community, and the intangible beauty of creation.