All good things must come to an end, and for Valentino, the farewell of Pierpaolo Piccioli is just the beginning of transformative shifts. Alongside his departure, the brand recently unveiled a major change in its approach to Fashion Week, choosing not to present its menswear and haute couture collections in the traditional runway format this coming June. These pivotal changes not only signifies the end of an iconic era, but reflects a broader industry trend towards creative leadership and fashion presentation.
“Everything existed and exists because of the people I met, worked with, shared dreams and created beauty with, built something that belongs to everyone, and remains unchanged and tangible,” reflects Piccioli on his Instagram.
Elevating through the ranks alongside Maria Grazia Chiuri after an impactful decade at Fendi, the duo was handpicked by Valentino Garavani to rejuvenate the brand's accessories line—a pivotal step that prefaced their rise in ranks to creative directors upon Garavani's retirement. Celebrated for bringing the likes of Florence Pugh, Rihanna, Zendaya, Emily Blunt, and Carey Mulligan into the Valentino fold, Piccioli's influence is undeniable.
Unafraid to mix modernity with the brand's esteemed legacy, Piccioli championed a bold evolution at Valentino. His leadership not only preserved the brand's rich history but also propelled it into new territories, marked by pioneering designs that captivated the contemporary zeitgeist. The Rockstud shoe and the "Pink PP" colourway emerged as quintessential symbols of the brand's rebirth, solidifying Valentino’s status as the "epitome of cool luxury".
Piccioli's vision for Valentino was also characterised by his dedication to diversity and inclusion, exemplified by haute couture collections that challenged conventional standards of beauty and representation as seen in his 2019 collection; inspired by Cecil Beaton's iconic 1948 photograph. This image, a symbol of old-world couture, prompted Piccioli to envision a modern twist by incorporating a diverse cast of models, particularly focusing on the inclusion of black women. The collection featured more than half of the models being black women, including Naomi Campbell and Adut Akech who opened the show.
Piccioli's Valentino has undoubtedly set the stage for future shifts in luxury fashion. His departure marks the beginning of a new era, sparking curiosity about who will next steer the brand's vision. And as we bid farewell to Piccioli, the industry stands on the cusp of a new chapter, anticipating the arrival of a fresh visionary ready to redefine luxury for this generation's fashion landscape.
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