PFW SS25: Valentino, Alessandro Michele's Grand Debut Was A Maximalist Masterpiece

If there’s one thing we’ve learned from Alessandro Michele’s grand debut for Valentino at Paris Fashion Week, it’s that fashion can still be full of theatricality, emotion, and unapologetic excess. In a world leaning heavily into quiet luxury and muted palettes, Michele stood firm, reminding us that glamour, extravagance, and unabashedly bold design are still very much alive. His first show for Valentino was a dramatic spectacle titled "Pavillon des Folies," and it was everything we hoped for and more.

From the very first look, it was clear that Michele wasn’t here to play it safe. A black wool dress with a flounced hem, white bib, and bold red tights hit the runway, immediately striking a chord with Valentino’s couture roots. But true to form, Michele went beyond nostalgia. He brought in playful touches like oversized straw hats, pearl and crystal facial jewelry, and lace gloves, blending elements from the '60s, '70s, and early '80s in a wild celebration of excess. Polka dots, florals, and ruffles added to the visual feast, while lavish sequined jackets and marabou stoles spoke to the designer’s deep dive into the house’s archives. It was clear that Michele wasn’t just designing clothes—he was creating characters.

Instagram @maisonvalentino

Instagram @maisonvalentino

Instagram @maisonvalentino

Instagram @maisonvalentino

As models floated down the runway, the collection told a story of aristocratic decadence, filled with quirky elegance. Gowns with Swarovski-encrusted chiffon, paisley brocade jackets, and flowing silk dresses whirled together in an array of textures and prints. There were silhouettes reminiscent of bohemian royalty—voluminous peasant dresses with puff sleeves, prairie-style skirts, and off-the-shoulder petticoats. And yet, for all its theatricality, there was something remarkably intimate about the collection. Each piece felt as though it had been pulled from a different era, yet made strikingly modern through Michele’s unique lens. The iconic Valentino red was ever-present, but Michele expanded the palette, introducing deep royal blues, glittering lilacs, mustard yellows, and forest greens. This wasn’t just a nod to the house’s past—it was a reinvention of it. Even the tailoring, with its stiff shoulders and exaggerated bows, felt as if Valentino’s '80s power suits had been transported to the 21st century.

Instagram @maisonvalentino

Instagram @maisonvalentino

Instagram @maisonvalentino

Instagram @vector_mgmt

Accessories played a pivotal role in elevating the collection, with giant floppy hats adorned with feathers, rhinestone-studded nose rings, and elaborate beaded necklaces that seemed to weigh the models down with the sheer weight of extravagance. This was fashion as a form of storytelling, where every detail, from the lace gloves to the glittering lip piercings, added to the overall narrative. Michele reminded us that dressing up is not just about aesthetics—it’s about embracing beauty in all its forms, whether refined or chaotic.

Instagram @differ.lamode

Instagram @differ.lamode

And while Valentino’s quiet luxury has its place, Michele made it clear that minimalism wasn’t on his radar. This collection was a bold rebuttal to the “quiet luxury” trend sweeping the industry. With Michele at the helm, Valentino’s future looks vibrant, dynamic, and unapologetically bold. As the lights dimmed and the applause swelled, it was obvious that Michele had done more than just present a collection—he had redefined what it means to wear Valentino.