PFW SS25: Saint Laurent

In the grand courtyard of Saint Laurent’s historic Rue de Bellechasse headquarters, under the soft glow of a golden oculus, Anthony Vaccarello delivered a tour de force for Spring/Summer 2025 that exuded quiet confidence and unwavering authority. With models gliding down a deep blue oval runway—a subtle nod to Yves Saint Laurent’s famous Marrakech gardens—Vaccarello reaffirmed his mastery over the house’s codes, offering a collection that was all about balance: the masculine with the feminine, restraint with flamboyance, power with elegance.

The moment that set the tone for the evening was the return of Bella Hadid, who, after a two-year hiatus due to her battle with Lyme disease, commanded the runway in a streamlined suit. In her presence, Vaccarello showcased what has become a hallmark of his vision at Saint Laurent—luxury rooted in simplicity. Hadid’s suit, sharp and meticulously tailored, was a reminder that the most profound statements in fashion often come in the most understated forms. Her reappearance not only marked a personal triumph but was a testament to the timelessness of Saint Laurent’s ability to blend power with grace.

Vaccarello’s dedication to structure was immediately clear in his opening looks. Oversized blazers with razor-sharp lapels, double-breasted jackets, and wide-legged trousers dominated the runway in a muted palette of anthracite, black, and deep plum. The power suits were undeniably masculine in shape, yet, when worn on the feminine body, their strength was amplified. There was a quiet rigidity to these pieces, a seriousness that demanded attention but never felt heavy-handed. The tailoring was impeccable—tight control and precision reigned supreme, channelling the Yves Saint Laurent philosophy that clothes should empower, not overwhelm.

Vaccarello didn’t just stop at suiting. His accessories were just as considered, with chunky gold bangles, glossy leather belts, and glittering shoes adding a dose of glamour to the otherwise restrained looks. These pieces felt like tributes to the house’s iconic muses, particularly Loulou de la Falaise, whose irreverent spirit Vaccarello has often referenced in his designs. The subtle nods to YSL’s history were present throughout—small reminders that while this was Vaccarello’s collection, it remained steeped in the codes of the house’s past.

But this collection was not solely about minimalism. As the show progressed, Vaccarello deftly transitioned into eveningwear, and with that came an explosion of colour and texture. Brocade blazers, sheer blouses, and ruffled skirts brought a touch of 1970s Saint Laurent decadence, with rich jewel tones—fuchsia, emerald, and canary yellow—lighting up the runway. The looks felt playful and exuberant, a perfect counterbalance to the severity of the tailored suiting.

The genius of Vaccarello’s work this season was in his ability to marry the strict with the sensual, the structured with the fluid. His evening pieces were unapologetically bold yet maintained the precision and control that defined the collection’s opening half. Cropped coats with floral motifs, lace-adorned dresses, and pyjama-inspired tunics reminded us that the Saint Laurent woman plays as hard as she works, inhabiting both worlds with equal ease.

In a way, this was Vaccarello’s love letter to Yves Saint Laurent’s legacy. His sharp suiting was reminiscent of Yves' own personal style, while the eveningwear was a nod to the house’s glamorous past. The show struck a perfect balance between old-school elegance and modern sophistication, a testament to Vaccarello’s ability to reinterpret the brand’s history for today’s woman. Even the more relaxed silhouettes were imbued with luxury, elevating casual to couture—a hallmark of Saint Laurent’s aesthetic that Vaccarello continues to master.

And, of course, there was the ever-present dialogue between masculinity and femininity, a tension that has always been at the heart of Saint Laurent. Vaccarello’s suits, while undeniably strong, looked even more powerful on the feminine form, reinforcing the idea that true empowerment comes from embracing both sides of the coin.

With Kate Moss and Linda Evangelista seated in the front row, this was a celebration of Saint Laurent’s enduring legacy and a reminder of its influence on fashion’s most iconic women. Yves himself once declared, “Chanel freed women, and I empowered them,” and it was a sentiment that echoed throughout the collection. Vaccarello’s Spring/Summer 2025 offering was a testament to that empowerment—clothes that didn’t just make a statement, but made women feel invincible.

As Bella Hadid closed the show in yet another perfectly tailored suit, the message was clear: Saint Laurent remains a house that understands the power of clothing to transform, to elevate, and to empower. And under Vaccarello’s watchful eye, that legacy continues to thrive.