PFW SS25: MIU MIU

Miuccia Prada's Miu Miu is not just a brand; it’s a conversation—an evolving dialogue that engages with the world, art, and the complexities of identity. The Spring/Summer 2025 show epitomized this ethos, marking the beginning of a series of multidisciplinary events that reflect Miu Miu’s long-standing cultural exchanges with pioneering women artists and filmmakers. This season, the spotlight turned to Goshka Macuga, the chosen artist, who reimagined the runway as a newspaper printing factory, bringing to life themes that resonate deeply in our contemporary context.

The stage was set in a striking installation, where a mise-en-scène film depicted lovers navigating the challenging waters of truth and deception. With the backdrop of an election year, the exploration of truth felt particularly poignant. Macuga created **The Truthless Times**, a physical newspaper placed on each seat, containing articles that delved into ideas of perception, self-identity, and the multifaceted nature of reality. Miuccia Prada herself acknowledged that while the connections between the art, set design, and the collection might seem elusive, they all aim to reflect our shared reality: “But it always works because we are interested in reality, in today.”

As the show unfolded, it became clear that the Spring/Summer 2025 collection sought to strip away excess, embracing a more straightforward essence. Delicate slips and pinafores in airy cotton and silk flowed effortlessly, paired with knitted bodices that wrapped around the body like a second skin. The designs evoked a sense of youthful nostalgia, resembling playful adaptations of school uniforms, as if the wearers had just come in from a spirited day of play and shed a layer to cool down.

The collection featured whimsical combinations, such as gym skirts and bloomers paired with cut-out swimsuits and cropped track tops, invoking memories of carefree sports days. These unconventional pairings projected a charming artlessness reminiscent of childhood, allowing the garments to embody the spontaneity and joy of youth. As the models glided down the runway, workwear trousers and waitress-style dresses added further layers of diversity, hinting at the complexities of identity and gender roles.

Highlights of the show included a glossy leather coat sported by Hilary Swank and 1970s-inspired prints that echoed a celebrated 2005 collection, serving as nostalgic reminders of Prada’s timeless prowess. The grand finale saw the return of Willem Dafoe, reprising his iconic role from a memorable 2012 Prada menswear show, underscoring the brand’s cinematic legacy. “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it,” seemed to be the unspoken mantra.

The Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2025 collection is a masterful blend of art, fashion, and introspection. It captures the essence of vanity while simultaneously challenging perceptions of truth. In a world saturated with information, Macuga’s artistic intervention, combined with Prada’s innovative designs, invites us to reflect on our identities and the narratives we construct around ourselves. The show left the audience pondering not just the garments on display, but the deeper meanings behind them—an exploration of self, perception, and the ever-complex nature of truth. In a world where conversations about identity are more crucial than ever, Miu Miu stands as a beacon of artistic exploration, challenging us to look beyond the surface.