PFW SS25 - Luis de Javier: An Ode to Seductive, Surrealist Bullfighting

Luis de Javier debuted or “gave birth” - in line with his promotional campaign rhetoric - at Paris Fashion Week with his highly anticipated Spring/Summer 25 collection. 

Paris, the last destination of Fashion Month, is arguably the most glamorous spectacle of the four fashion capitals’ presentations, with its schedule filled to the brim with fashion houses deep-rooted in legacy and history. Luxury designer labels like Dior and Louis Vuitton have long dominated the season’s media coverage and buzz. However, up-and-coming fashion brands have slowly been making waves, redefining the fashion industry landscape and demonstrating consumers’ evergrowing interest in the novelty and experimentation of new creatives. 

The Spanish designer, guided by the mentorship of Riccardo Tisci, the highly acclaimed Italian fashion designer renowned for his work at Givenchy, presented his recent debut at Espace Niemeyer, the French Communist’s headquarters. The architecture, a dedication to artistic expression, mirrored the modernity of the Spring/Summer 25 collection. 

The unveiling of de Javier's audacious collection explored the union of haute couture influences and Spanish fashion heritage, playing on the symbol of the bull and legacy of the matador costome, a tribute to Cristóbal Balenciaga, whose origins he shares. “I aimed to pay tribute to the master’s profound impact on fashion. By blending these influences, I’ve created a collection that not only respects the grandeur of my inspirations but also embraces the evolution of my own creative identity,” the designer shared when detailing the creative journey behind his showstopping presentation.

De Javier incorporated and redefined signature sartorial styles of his cultural background with provocative, contrasting black and virginal white silhouettes of mantilla-inspired dresses. The collection introduced a range of embroidered matador jackets, gothic beaded headpieces and protruding bull horns. Sheer and delicate lace bodysuits juxtaposed de Javier’s experimentation with stretched cow leather embossed to create the illusion of snake skin’s glossy texture.

In his triumphant debut, de Javier showcased his blending of contemporary style codes and appreciation for heritage, cementing his position as an emerging designer to watch.