PFW SS25: LOEWE

Jonathan Anderson posed a simple yet thought-provoking question in his show notes for Loewe Spring/Summer 2025: "What happens when you take all the noise away?" As he marked a decade of success at the Spanish luxury house, Anderson took a bold step in stripping back the extravagance, focusing instead on the essence of design. This wasn’t just about minimalism, though—it was about the potential that emerges when you rethink the foundations of fashion. True to form, Anderson’s mastery of reworking silhouettes and textures made this collection a standout celebration of his ten-year tenure.

Set against a stark white backdrop, the runway was bare except for Tracey Emin’s sculpture, The only place you came to me was in my sleep (2017). The minimalist space mirrored the themes of vulnerability and strength that Anderson was keen to explore. In this quiet atmosphere, the collection unfolded as a "radical reduction," paring back the unnecessary to let the clothes speak for themselves. Without flashy embellishments or over-the-top styling, the pieces demanded attention through their simplicity, encouraging viewers to take a closer look, second-guess their assumptions, and appreciate the subtle power of silence.

Tailoring took centre stage, with fluid, curved lines that created a sense of movement and ease. Dresses and skirts incorporated futuristic crinolines and structured wiring, allowing them to expand and shift in unexpected ways, blending rigidity with flow. Anderson’s clever manipulation of proportions was also on display—T-shirts were paired with slim trousers, turning everyday basics into something more refined and playful. As always, his sense of humour shone through, as elements like ultra-mini dresses, feather-adorned pieces, and rubber-like outerwear disrupted traditional ideas of casual wear.

Textures were key, with knits shimmering under layers of sequins, feathers serving as canvases for printed paintings, and garments made entirely of mother-of-pearl shells. These whimsical details brought a touch of opulence to otherwise understated designs, reminding us that even in simplicity, Anderson finds ways to surprise and delight.

Loewe’s accessories, which have flourished under Anderson’s leadership, grounded the collection. Lace-up Oxfords and high-top Ballet runners made their mark, while the new trapezoid-shaped ‘Madrid’ bag—named after Loewe’s home city—debuted to great acclaim. Of course, the iconic ‘Puzzle’ bag returned as well, this time in feather-light, squishy leather, adding a playful touch to the runway.

Much like Tracey Emin’s sculpture, the Spring/Summer 2025 collection invited reflection—a moment of pause in an otherwise noisy world. Anderson’s work reminded us that sometimes, removing the excess allows space for imagination and deeper thought. In a sea of loud statements, this collection quietly but confidently proved that less can indeed be more.