Lauren Bulla

PFW SS25: Litkovska

This Paris SS25’ season, Litkovska introduced the collection, “ZHNYVA”. Translating to “harvest” in Ukrainian, the works aim to symbolise the gathering of the brand’s achievements over the last 15 years since its inception. This collection of works reflects the concept of reaping what’s been sown, regeneratively. The detail oriented cycle nods to a process of creation, reflection, and renewal. Each of these steps alludes to the brand’s history and its desire to constantly evolve.

The works solidify the notion that an ongoing dialogue is the only way to consistently build ideas and concepts to their truest potential. In March during AW25’, the brand initially presented the beginning phase of this concept. The presentation implored guests to engage with a conversation not yet begun, encouraged to write wishes for peace and victory on white ribbons.

The messages have since been harvested, being brought to Kyiv where Ukrainians responded with letters and postcards of reverence. These written sentiments were then returned to Paris at the SS25’ presentation. Attendees witnessed a full cycle which serves as an example of the power that exists between shared voices. Attendees also became participants in the presentation as they were encouraged to take show-relevant artefacts. Wooden crates lined the exit for guests to pick through, white florals, wheat, Ukrainian flags, and apples were all for the taking.

Designer Lilia Litkovska’s heritage and focus on careful craftsmanship is highlighted within the works. The collection included deconstructed menswear elements which are reconfigured as feminine silhouettes. Texture is a centrefold to this series of works. Various layers and symbolic ornamenting elements play amidst Intricate layers of mesh and trimmed raw hems. These details represented corn tassels, whilst faux leather was dotted with glossy finish, designed to represent a sprinkling of seasonal rainfall.

Asymmetric layering was dramatic and eye-catching. Elongated sleeves on the left side of the body mimicked the construction of exaggerated singular trouser legs on the right. White and black colour blocking added to the contrast of foliage as it was used to break up the materials comprising each outfit. A stringent, two dimensional grey coloured the venue whilst softer earthly elements had their dalliance across cement floors.

The overarching theme of a cyclical harvest showcased via earth-inspired colourways. Consisting of many neutrals the works were constructed with white, black, tan and brown materials. Colour bloomed onto the runway, the garments including notes of orange, dark green, yellow and blue. Thirteen models appeared, donning identical metallic makeup. Crisp geometric shapes were painted across the eyes and strobed back to the hairline. The uniformity of the striking glam allowed for the garments to stand out even more.

Further details included wheat seeds which were strategically placed on the floor throughout the event, underneath mannequins which precluded the live catwalk. They were also found underneath a live bandura player which performed the Ukrainian national stringed instrument to the tune of the catwalk. In addition to this collaboration, the brand also worked with Nick Knight, a renowned British image maker. Knight created custom floral imagery which was deconstructed and embroidered onto various fabrics within the collection.

As is common at the end of a show, the designer entered the room to applause. She then said a few words of gratitude in a tear-crackled voice. The ringing sentiment being, “grow your harvest, meet your harvest, share your harvest”. The entire collection was created and presented on this premise, that we have nothing if we are not to share what we create, community being a central focal point.