PFW SS25: Hermès

For Spring/Summer 2025, Nadège Vanhée-Cybulski once again proved why she’s become a quiet force at Hermès, subtly shaping the brand’s legacy while never betraying its roots. Presented in Paris, this collection wasn’t about grand gestures or chasing trends—it was an ode to the craftsmanship and timeless elegance that have long been synonymous with the house. At a time when maximalism and spectacle dominate the runway, Vanhée-Cybulski’s approach felt almost radical in its restraint, a lesson in how true luxury lies in the details, the materials, and the hands that shape them.

The show’s setting, a minimalist space drenched in soft light, mirrored the quiet confidence of the clothes. The collection unfolded with a series of pieces that felt as if they had been meticulously crafted over time, each one carefully considered for both form and function. Layers were the collection's cornerstone—versatile, practical, and, as always, masterfully executed. In true Hermès fashion, they weren't just about looking good; they were about utility and craft, designed to merge effortlessly while adding complexity and dimension to the overall look.

Take, for instance, the silk-and-wool wrap dust coat, its surface adorned with loops and pockets for glasses—practical, yet impossibly chic. Or the calfskin coat, which, upon closer inspection, ingeniously concealed a bomber jacket and drawstring vest underneath. This was layering at its most refined, where every element felt intentional, built to serve both function and form.

There was a duality at play throughout the collection, particularly in Vanhée-Cybulski’s exploration of light and opacity. Transparency became an invitation to see beneath the surface, both literally and metaphorically. A silk mesh skirt, zipped down the centre, revealed high-waisted culottes underneath, playing with the viewer’s perception of what’s hidden and what’s exposed. An apron dress in rich ebony brown transformed into something dynamic, thanks to woven organdy bands that created a subtle, yet powerful, bas-relief effect. The interplay between opaque and sheer materials lent an airy, weightless feel to some of the collection’s standout pieces, grounding them in a sense of understated sensuality.

Of course, Hermès’ famed leatherwork took centre stage, but with a twist. Vanhée-Cybulski’s leather wasn’t just a nod to the house’s history—it was reimagined for a new era. This season’s leather was cut into short tops, mini skirts, and taped trousers, and infused with haute couture techniques that showcased the house’s unmatched expertise in pattern-cutting and fabrication. The result was both rugged and refined, an adventurous take on the material that has defined Hermès for decades.

The accessories, too, reflected Vanhée-Cybulski’s commitment to the tactile. Wood-soled sandals in muted hues of camel and kraft paper added an organic contrast to the more structured pieces, while geometric earrings, crafted from the same leather tabs that reinforce the iconic Hermès bags, brought a playful twist to the brand’s more mature sensibility. And speaking of bags, the Birkin à l’envers and Plume bags made a reappearance, grounding the collection with a dose of Hermès’ signature heritage while remaining thoroughly modern.

What struck me most about this collection was its balance—between youthful exuberance and mature elegance, between the brand’s storied past and Vanhée-Cybulski’s thoroughly modern vision. Despite celebrating ten years at a house that’s been around since the 1830s, her approach never feels trapped by tradition. Instead, she breathes new life into it, proving that Hermès can be both timeless and timely.

Vanhée-Cybulski has always understood that true luxury doesn’t shout—it whispers. And in this collection, she whispered something profound: fashion is about craftsmanship, about taking the time to do something well. In a season where many designers are chasing the next big moment, she showed us that the most impactful statement can often be found in the quiet pursuit of perfection.