PFW SS25: Heliot Emil

This season’s collection by HELIOT EMIL for SS25’ preempts its audience to grapple with the question, “What is nature and what is artificial?”. Is there a way to inherently differentiate between what compels us of the natural world? And what are we to make of the things that look real enough to touch? This collection is directly influenced by the installation art piece entitled, Riverbed by Olafur Eliasson, showcased in 2014. If you don’t know the work, I’d google it imminently. I was unfamiliar with the art piece before but it truly draws everything together into a very tidy paperclip closure.

The work was initially exhibited at the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, showcasing an artificial volcanic landscape. HELIOT EMIL collaborated with industry heavyweights, PUMA and STACCATO on construction, key accessories, and footwear which really pulled the vision into view. The collection is monochromatic, playing into near entirely white and black colourways. Chrome accessories and footwear furnishings present a series of juxtaposing additions to the catwalk. Models wore little if any eye makeup, presenting fresh airbrushed faces. Dewy, almost luminescent under the runway lights. Hair was either styled naturally if short. Tucked behind ears if long, with a light gel touch to hold it in place.

Above us, audience members became witnesses to the centrepiece of the runway. Working with ENCOR studio, this collaboration created a 100cm installation composed of electrochromic glass. The transparency of the material is actually contingent on the level of electronic current. The artificial quality of the current itself is another ode to the distinction and reintegration of nature versus technology. Which very eloquently weaves itself into the collaboration of PUMA’s sportswear expertise and STACCATO’s innovative takes on footwear and accessory assembly for this capsule collection. 

HELIOT EMIL has worked with STACCATO previously, for their second collaboration, the accessories feature a unique bag and shoes designed with sculptural features. Soles are weighty and contorted in shape, providing contradistinction between its other streamlined elements.

Models began arriving from what I can only imagine is a fictional arid landscape of the future. HELIOT EMIL does a phenomenal job of showcasing the connecting point between understated forms via intricately nuanced silhouettes. Asymmetry was used to define garment shapes, which featured layering of shorts over trousers, an interlocking of undulating flowing detail over jacket zips. All to be clasped with abstractly designed carabiners. Oversized bags were inserted with additional material giving them an inflated quality. These were immediately juxtaposed with hard line, heavy leather shoulder bags. 

All black puffers were styled halfway unzipped up the torso. Thus showcasing the dual zipper quality while the eye was drawn to cutouts near the base of the hood. Shoes presented very heavy industrial qualities, hard silver geometric forms outlined the toe of boots. Others appeared all black, hoof-like in shape. High quality materials were clearly a centrefold to his collection, the limited palette is what allowed their definitiveness to truly shine.

Some looks were more sensual in shape and form. Racerback dresses, all the way to leather micro minis, entered the venue up to full body coverage, including baseball cap, gloves, backpack, and trainers. The multifarious styling allowed a full image of the ways the collection could notch into individual wardrobes. Showcasing that sophistication can be as practical as it is intriguing. 

Alternating pattern loose knits were paired under updated versions of waistcoats, with thick bands opening at the bottom in a v shape. Again, presenting a closure mechanism similar to that of a futuristic carabiner. Black leather strap sandals with heavy industrial heels were styled with incredibly lightweight white skirts and structured halter tops. Donning the brand's quintessential “H” which was also featured on belt buckles. Multifunctional zippers presented as accessories to some of the looks in addition to being operatively compelling. 

All playing back to the brand's inspiration. It exists at a delicately overlapping crossroads of elegance and industrial treatments. Mobility and shape come together in a collection which reimagines fluidity as it presents a quiet uncomplicatedness. Walking away, you can't help but to wonder where these innovations will bring us next season, as the brand never ceases to amaze and nearly entrance onlookers.