PFW SS25: Florentina Leitner

Florentina Leitner is an Austrian Fashion Designer with an affinity for whimsy, femininity, and most of all, fun. The brand initially launched back in 2022, post-graduation from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. The label is based in Belgium and creates Ready-to-Wear Womenswear Collections which feature various couture-essence treatments. 

The Last Unicorn, an animated fantasy film from 1982 is the origin point for this collection’s inspiration. The film is based on the original beloved novel by Peter S. Beagle. The catwalk, taking place at Boulevard Saint Germain in Paris, took us up four floors to experience the magical world of Leitner. This collection’s focus posits itself on the feminine, whimsical and slightly dark. Aligned with the film, which deals with socially relevant themes as much as its lighthearted luminescent appeal.

Previous collections were born of Leitner’s adoration of story-telling and simultaneous world building. These works are equally beautiful as they are necessary for the narrative as it builds around us. Chrome fences, chains and florals blockaded the audience in their seats. They then became witness to a mysticising collection of pastels interlaced into darker colourways featuring pops of red. 

A-line garments included three dimensional silver floral details as they glided across parquet floors. Embellishing sought to amplify otherwise expertly constructed, yet unpretentious cotton halter tops and skirts. Models exuded the energy of slightly lost and somewhat ragged forest sprites. Decorated with nude lipstick and silver inner eye makeup, there was something equally beautiful as it was ghostly about the styling of this collection. 

A fluctuation of exposed skin presented as garments seemingly became more modest and then back to artfully sultry as the show progressed. Some models were ornamented in entirely mesh dresses and shimmery socks with bow-toed heels. Reminiscent of the foliage one would stumble across in the forest, there was an achingness that was felt through the garments. Neutral pieces were kicked up a notch with seemingly inflated floral features. Exaggerated asymmetrical hemlines complimented mesh knee socks and silver trainers. Decorative accessories and furry bags shaped like unicorns were flaunted by the models. 

The narrative builds with each passing runway look, as characters within the storyline are slowly unveiled to attendees. As the final walk through is highly anticipated, each of the works seemingly sashayed into lockstep with one another. The entirety of the mythical tale was eventually in full view. Enmeshed in the film’s larger themes which centralise around identity, transformation and a longingness to be understood. 

The garments and accessories do a phenomenal job of telling the story whilst remaining wearable. Quirky tie bottom bonnets featured a singular unicorn horn in iridescent fabric, whilst butterfly masks appeared, beaded and glittery. Thought-provoking screen printed t-shirts beg you to ask yourself if there truly is such a thing as an “ending” and if that’s even a bad thing. We’re implored to interrogate our relationship between hardness and feminine expectation as light materials appear via structured garments. 

We got the chance to dig into the inspiration a little more with the designer herself. Read below to learn more about her creative process and what it means to blur the lines between strength, femininity and a little devilishness. 

Can you give our readers a little perspective about what the main inspiration point was?

The Last Unicorn, an animated movie that we loved when we were younger. It’s exciting to be inspired by something dear to our hearts. We actually reached out to the movie production company and asked if they wanted to do a collaboration with us - they agreed. 

We wanted to bring Peter’s narrative to life but also bring it into our world. The movie is about the transformation of a unicorn and the process of turning into a human girl. 

There’s also a villain character and it gets quite dark. It’s not only a childish, cute movie… serious topics are also covered. I wanted to bring that alive. To showcase the transformation from the nice cute girl to this more devilish character. 

This devilish character, the bull, is where the red colour in the collection came from. We also included shimmery fabrics, white cotton while horse hair was added to shoes.  

When it comes to your creative process do you find that an idea hits you all at once or is it something you have to mull over and add to slowly? 

I think it’s a mix. The main idea just hits me all at once. Then I try to research deeper then new elements get added while we’re creating. For example, at first it was just the animated movie, then it was what they said in the movie and then we used some quotes from the book. 

“There are no happy endings because nothing ends” and another “I’m always dreaming even when I’m awake”. 

As I was researching the voices of the movie, one of them was Mia Farrow. She has always been a style icon to me. I loved her in Rosemary’s Baby. From there, it all just came together because she was the voice of the unicorn.

She actually had this look once that was a ballgown with a butterfly mask, which directly inspired this one look in the collection with our own beaded version. 

Since you mentioned being inspired by the voice actress, who else inspires you in the fashion and the art world? 

Urs Fischer,  a swiss guy living in New York, I just really like his sculptures. As for fashion, I mean there’s so many cool designers - I love Paolina Russo.

If you could go back in time and give your younger self advice after knowing what you know now, what would you say? 

I’m always saying that I don’t have any regrets. It’s just life. I guess I could tell myself; don’t worry it will be fine, but I still have a lot of years to live - it might not be fine.

I like to be in the now and try to be positive, but it's also not always possible. 

I wouldn't change anything but I would say enjoy your youth, you’ll grow up so fast.

Florentina is known for various signature elements which posit themselves within her collections. More popular works include specialty prints and floral elements in the way of 3D flowers. Each of the works is created in small artisanal factories in Italy. Over the short two years that the brand has been active, it’s become increasingly popular as these works are beloved by the likes of celebrities and style wave-makers globally. 

A master at work, Leitner delicately leads you by the hand into her world. You find yourself stagnant there - both unable to look away and yet equally unwilling to miss a single moment.

Collaboration is intrinsic to the world of creative development. This collection does a phenomenal job of showcasing what we stand to gain when we work with other creatives. As the designer worked closely with Peter S. Beagle’s team - the essence of the film, The Last Unicorn was preserved while bringing it into a contemporary space. One that will allow its impact to reinvent itself via the wearer and the ways they individually incorporate the garments into their daily wardrobe. 

Florentina Letiner is a designer to watch… closely. I’m very excited to see how her affinity for story-telling and juxtaposition will continue to imbue her collections as each new season comes and passes.