PFW SS25 - Duran Lantink’s Whimsical Retro-Futuristic Theatricality

Duran Lantink returned to Paris Fashion Week to unveil his highly anticipated Spring/Summer 25 collection.

Image Courtesy of Jamie-Maree Shipton

The Dutch designer’s presentation follows his recent win of the coveted LVMH Karl Lagerfeld Prize, awarded to a brand that displays exceptional creativity, which will see him receiving €200,000 to expand his brand in addition to a year-long mentorship from the luxury conglomerate. Continuing his practice of drawing inspiration from a fashion culture or creative practice of a selected individual, the Dutch designer spring beachwear paid homage to the American sculptor and jewellery maker Kris Ruhs and his partner and Italian gallerist Carla Sozzani.

Images Courtesy of SHOWstudio

Lantik’s 46 looks, presented in the heart of Le Marais, were dominated by voluminous circular silhouettes, signatures of the upcoming brand, such as float-like skirts or tubular crop tops. Whimsical striped bikinis were embellished with black coils wound around models’ necks and chunky layers of battered silver. Voluminous protruding padding exemplified Lantik’s absurdist surrealism, bringing three-dimensional shapes to experimental wearability.

Images Courtesy of Jamie-Maree Shipton

Whilst subtle and delicately playful, the collection pushed the boundaries of form and convention with a distinctively thought-provoking reimagination of presentation methods. Lantink’s sculptural approach presented a variation of bulging bras and inspired the repurposing of wooden beaded car seat covers for various dresses and skirts.

Image Courtesy of Jamie-Maree Shipton

A series of floral bodysuits juxtaposed the conical drama of bustline bulges and padded hip joints with suggestions of minimalism. Equally as theatrical, the designer further explored his creativity beyond tailoring by showcasing his debut leather handbags inverted and turned into hats above the heads of his models. Lantink further conveyed his retro-futuristic visual language with a white mini dress with an embedded screen programmed to live stream the runway. The designer’s quirky and contemporary presentation was closed on a note of elegance with Naomi Campbell in a black bias-cut gown.

Image Courtesy of SHOWstudio

Lantink’s avant-garde aesthetic, characterised by extremes of silhouette, continues to gain praise for its clever sculptural ingenuity and distinct approach. His bulbous accentuating forms have his ever-growing audience hungry for more of his peculiarly graceful and cartoonish designs.