PFW SS25: Chloé

Chemena Kamali’s second outing for Chloé during Paris Fashion Week delivered exactly what we’ve come to expect from her already-signature aesthetic: an unapologetic celebration of boho romance, but with a bite. It’s hard to believe she’s only been at the helm for a single season, considering the immediate effect her designs have had on the fashion landscape. You don’t need to look far—just stroll through any high street and you’ll see echoes of her flowing ruffles, bleached-out colours, and those perfectly whimsical flowing silhouettes.

What Kamali is doing at Chloé feels a bit radical. In an era where fashion is either chasing hyper-minimalism or cranking out gaudy, statement-making pieces, she’s doubling down on the pretty and the nostalgic. But make no mistake: her take on romance isn’t the soft-focus, sepia-toned vision of the past. It’s romance with purpose, a deliberate choice to reject the noise and embrace something fundamentally feminine and freeing.

For Spring/Summer 2025, Kamali gave us a collection that felt like a summer daydream: bubble hems, crochet onesies, and lace-trimmed knickerbockers—the kind of stuff that could easily veer into costume territory, but here felt fresh and unexpectedly modern. There’s a playfulness to Kamali’s approach, but it’s grounded in a real understanding of what women actually want to wear. This isn’t fashion for the sake of fashion; it’s fashion for the sake of feeling good.

The beauty of Kamali’s vision lies in its inherent optimism. Her Chloé woman is carefree, unburdened by trends, and anchored in the brand’s eternal state of mind. And that optimism shone through, even as torrential rain poured down in Paris—a sharp contrast to the sun-faded fabrics on the runway, which looked like they had spent a lifetime in the heat. The show’s easy-going vibe felt like a reminder that fashion doesn’t always have to be so serious. Sometimes, it’s about joy.

The collection was aptly titled the Freedom Collection, and it delivered just that: a wardrobe built for the kind of woman who is just as comfortable in a perfectly tailored jacket as she is in wafty cami dresses and silk charmeuse blouses. The lingerie-inspired details, like delicate lace peeking out from under tailored pieces, added a sultry edge without ever feeling too precious. Kamali is a master at balancing those contradictions: soft versus structured, feminine versus masculine, delicate versus bold.

It wasn’t all just ethereal, flowy gowns, though. Kamali is clearly thinking about the full scope of a modern woman’s wardrobe. Alongside the romantic chiffon blouses and crochet onesies, she threw in some sturdy leather sleeveless gilets and single-breasted jackets that looked ready for the boardroom—or maybe just a particularly chic stroll through the Marais. The standout was a suede jacket, with its gathered, pleated sleeves and transparent long under-sleeves—delicate and practical all at once. The mix of tailoring and femininity was perfect, offering a refined contrast to the floatier pieces.

But Kamali wasn’t just playing dress-up. By introducing ruffled bloomers—a callback to 19th-century feminist fashion—she added a layer of meaning to the collection. The bloomers, with their roots in women’s liberation, were an inspired choice, blending historical depth with modern flair. These weren’t your grandmother’s bloomers, though. Kamali’s version, shown with cropped jackets and satin blouses, was decidedly cheeky—both literally and figuratively.

The collection also reworked some vintage prints, with roses and peonies blooming across blouses and dresses. It’s a subtle but powerful nod to Yves Chloé’s legacy while pushing the house forward. Kamali knows how to pay homage to the past without getting stuck in it. She’s crafting a new vision of femininity—one that embraces both the dreamy and the daring.

And then there’s that sense of spontaneity that’s becoming Kamali’s hallmark. The fabrics looked sun-bleached and worn, but not in a way that felt dated. It was more like you’d just pulled these pieces out of your suitcase after a summer spent travelling the world. The whole collection felt effortless, from the fluttering ruffles to the oversized leather vests that could easily double as fisherman’s gear. There was something easy and playful about it all, a reminder that fashion can—and should—be fun.

By the end of the show, as Kamali ran onto the runway to a wave of applause, it was clear she’s steering Chloé into a new era. Her vision is feminine, free-spirited, and above all, uncomplicated. In a time when fashion feels more chaotic than ever, Kamali’s romance feels kind of radical.

So yes, dust off your jelly shoes and get ready for a summer of Chloé boho-chic—because Chemena Kamali is making sure playtime is back on the agenda.