PFW SS25 - Chanel, Creative Studio Shines Sophisticatedly

The last day of Paris Fashion Week saw the first Chanel Spring/Summer show since Virginie Viard stepped down from the post of creative director. The collection was designed by the members of the creative studio who decided to take it back to Grand Palais for the first time since October 2020.

It started off with classic Chanel tweed with a more youthful and fun take on it - skirts and shorts with slits. Each upper garment seemed to possess its own feathery collar whilst every model wore beautiful platform shoes signifying the edgy vibrant energy of the looks. It transitioned into pants with matching jackets and dresses with summery cool bags. Comprising 77 looks, the collection had an air of airiness whilst representing the house’s codes, much of which was achieved by smart accessorising, aided by chic, laid back hairstyles and make-up.

Apart from what resembled a triumphant, albeit slightly directionless, return to Grand Palais, it was a homecoming to the essence of Chanel. The rumour mill surrounding the creative director’s post was set ablaze by the news regarding Hedi Slimane. Chanel looks to hire externally for the first time in roughly four decades. Although, no timeline has been made clear by the executives, as to what will be the creative studio’s last collection.

Going back to the show, there were references everywhere; from the clothes to the 45 foot tall birdcage (think ‘91, Coco parfum advertisement). It was an homage to Coco & Karl in the way it was true to them, their fashion language and their ideologies.