PFW SS25: BLONI

Entering the cavernous exhibition space of Galerie MR8, attendees bore witness to a circular, slow burn presentation in which models strode through tight corners and wide rooms. BLONI presented an unveiling of their newest collection “Passages”. The works showcase multi-dynamic and constantly flowing elements which intercept human, machine, and natural world. Compelling us to dig a bit deeper, we ask ourselves not only “why” but “how” our perceptions remain stratified. 

BLONI is a fashion house centred around the future via historical lens as it pertains to forms, textiles, and garment construction. Advocating a staunch stance on “gender agnosticism and future thinking”, works present new forms composed of unexpected fabrics. Wearability is a focal point for this brand, pushing a constant stance on innovation and reinvention. Each garment compels us to interpret our relationship to it as we interpret the natural shapes of the body. 

Form and shape appear in juxtaposition with one another, high arched silhouettes feature near-translucent mesh inserts. The low lighting of the main room nicely reflected the entrance and rescinding of models. Operating as an origin point for the collection behind the partition out of a backlit space. Thus solidifying the birthplace of the garments and their subsequent narratives. The second room in which they strode out into was more overtly lit in a warm white tonal range. This overlapping of human into nature is further understood by entrance into the atelier. Tucked away off the main street underneath a stone arch, the venue was consumed by green to orange gradient foliage. 

Rainy skies saturated us prior to entry but the balmy-lit presentation served as momentary reprieve. Guests were offered glasses of sparkling white during the show. Finding space within corners and along walls, we gathered in view of the garments. Models were not only gliding between rooms, they also consistently interacted with each other. Before our eyes, a fuller narrative builds within each garment. Similar to a paint-by-numbers, the works slowly created a complete image for audience members to decode with each stride.Ominous atmospheric music swarmed the models and then us. Low bass echoed within the tracks. Chest plates featuring crystalline structures and abstract elements sat atop shoulders as they were exhibited to attendees. One model stepped into the centre of the room just before another two began circling her, looking into photographers' lenses. Gazing into the eyes of guests with directness and intention, focused yet featherlight in their movements. 

The narrative continued to build throughout the duration of the presentation, models operating independently and in pairs, in some cases a third person would appear to further the storyline. The garments consisted of a neutral palette intermixed with various drops of colour. Blues, reds, and pale yellow carved a space amidst the earth tones and flowing materials. Additionally there were two clothing racks, presenting more like fixtures in an exhibition as opposed to retail displays. 

Works were structured and gauzy. Cut-out detail on geometric blazers and tops with harsh structural lines appeared. All the while existing in the same universe as micro minis, underwear peeking beneath. While a garter-esk maxi skirt presented a hem above the pantyline. Silken dresses flowed behind models, long trains in tow. Heavy beading accented many of the works, appearing in succession with more neutral styling.

BLONI is a wave-maker in this industry for many reasons, the designer Akshat Bansal is from Hisar, India. Having been trained at the National Institute of Fashion and Technology as well as Central Saint Martins, he launched his brand in 2017. Accolades are numerous including, GQ’s Most Influential Indians 2024, Vogue Forces of Fashion 2023, and Forbes India 30 under 30 in 2020. Reputations as an emerging talent have since been cemented. 

These garments seek to question the very concept of clothes construction. The body as it exists to be decentered is highlighted as the works beg their viewer harsher questions about material quality and movement. Forcing us to dissect our relationship to the past as it influences the future, you’ll find BLONI’s works to be perspective-shifting, high quality, and distinctly detailed.