PFW SS25: Bibi Van Der Velden

During PFW SS25’ Bibi Van Der Velden presented her newest capsule, the Jellyfish Collection. With twenty years in the industry, the brand offers collections that are equally refined as they are playful, balancing a very intricate dance between gorgeous materials and intricate secrets, hidden within trap doors and snap closures. 

Describing the works as, “miniature sculptures” the brand is a game-changer in the fine jewellery industry. Each of the pieces is first hand sketched and then carved into wax, which is then cast in high quality materials that the brand is committed to utilising. 

Entering the intimate showroom at Chateau Voltaire in Paris, I knew I was in for a special experience. Waltzing throughout the collection, previous capsules as well as the newest series were on display for guests to try on and engage with - up close and personal. 

Additionally, I had the privilege of speaking with Bibi herself. Read below to learn more about her most recent collection and the inspiration behind the brand.

Can you give us a little bit of insight into this new collection and what it means to you and the brand?

I usually have base collections and then add capsules to them. The newest being the jellyfish collection. It’s a bit of an ode to my life in Portugal. I moved there a few years ago with my family. We surf. We are very much connected to the ocean, the collection is about healthy living, being outside, and these creatures I come across when we’re surfing.I've always been intrigued by them, they’re like jewels of the sea when you see them gliding through. Some have these dayglow colours and they've got this beautiful membrane inside. I’ve always wanted to do a collection like this. 

It’s all pearls and carved raw crystal. They feature a gold membrane with peacock coloured tahitian pearls and white south sea pearls. Of which, we drill little studs which make a pattern on the actual jellyfish. The tassels are actually tiny mermaids that are hidden in the waves and they're fun, light, easy to wear.

You mentioned you designed capsule collections that go into the wider breadth of the brand, so tell us about the brand itself and how it came to be?

So a little bit of a background about me, I am a sculptor. My mother is a sculptor as well, so I grew up in her studio. I always knew it was going to be my path in life. Then I encountered jewellery when I was in Italy at the art academy.I was leading a double life where I was at the academy. During the day, it was very conceptual, very physical. In the evenings I was completing a Goldsmiths education which was very technical and nearly meditative in a way.When I graduated from the art academy, I launched the brand in full which was nearly 20 years ago.

Over time it became a fine jewellery brand  and I think we’re quite leading in transformational jewellery that’s highly articulated, containing hidden secrets. Rings that you can open, bracelets which become a necklace.The Alligator collection is pretty iconic for me. Every piece hinges and moves, the locking mechanisms are part of the design so the mouth really bites onto the tail and snaps shut on your wrist. The Scarab collection, the Alligator collection - these are collections I'm really known for. 

I really try to approach jewellery in a sculptural way. It doesn't necessarily need a body to come alive. It's not just an adornment.

Your jewellery is not afraid to be playful but also remains refined which I think is a difficult thing to achieve. Can you talk to us a bit more about why specifically the Scarab collection?

Like a lot of things that I do, it came organically. I do my production in Bangkok and I was seeing all these wings surface at markets. There's always been a recycling element to my work. So the scarab, it draws from the value Egyptian culture subscribes to them, new life and luck. So they became kind of these amulets for me.

One thing which is nice to touch upon - the body of the scarab/ alligator is carved to match the design I make. Whereas a lot of designers buy carved stone and then make a design around it, so we’re also quite leading in that way. For instance, the blue topaz Sea Foam ring, the tidal waves carving is pretty crazy here, it’s so detailed.

If you imagined someone seeing your jewellery on the street, what do you hope they think?

I hope that they recognize it as being from my hand. Hopefully the jewellery brings a little spark of joy and intrigues people - there's always something to discover.

At some point before you knew what was coming, you were this younger version of yourself, what would you tell her after what you know now?

I was 25, just discovering the world. I think importantly, I've always had fun with what I do, there's a sense of humour to the pieces.

A lot was thrown in my direction when I was starting out. I just didn't have the manpower or the capacity to follow through in ways that I would now. I wouldn't say that I took things for granted, but I would’ve jumped on things a little bit more.I would leave things pretty much the way they’ve gone. Looking back, I was able to create foundations that have, from a technical perspective, evolved in craftsmanship and design. In this world where everything is so flighty, I feel we’ve carved out our niche in the industry. 

I always felt this pressure to perform, so I’d say to just enjoy the ride. That's really important. 

Bibi expresses that she likes “jewellery to be super personal, to speak without words, and bring you joy when you wear it”. The pieces are fashioned from haute precious materials such as 18k recycled gold, diamonds and baroque pearls. 

A background in sculpture leads her works to be detail oriented. Presenting an artistic take on otherwise standard accessories. A brand dedicated to the wearer, they’ve done a phenomenal job of yet again showcasing little secrets that are designed to be kept between you and each piece. 

Attention sparking and conversation influencing, Bibi does it again with another iconic capsule that will seamlessly blend into your personal collection. Even better, if this is your first insight into the world of Bibi Van Der Velden, I doubt you’ll turn away anytime soon. Presenting a blending of artistry, passion, and high grade materials - Bibi’s playful twist on fine jewellery will leave heads turning, as you sparkle down even the grayest of pavements.