Schiaparelli Haute Couture SS25: ‘Icarus’, Roseberry Declares the Death of Minimalism"

Daniel Roseberry returns once again to open Haute Couture Week in Paris with Schiaparelli’s Spring/Summer 2025 show. The Texas-born designer and creative director unveiled his sixth collection, titled ‘Icarus,’ a Greek tragedy reimagined through the lens of couture. Roseberry stretched the wings of Haute Couture, transporting us to a realm where the past meets the present, weaving together history, craftsmanship, and a modern reinterpretation of extravagance.

The collection was inspired by Roseberry’s desire to challenge modern fashion and draw inspiration from history. His discovery of antique Lyon ribbons from the 1920s, hidden during the war, sparked the creative process. These ribbons, charged with nostalgia and timeless beauty, influenced the collection's color palette and silhouettes, drawing on the elegance of legendary couturiers. 

The International Designer of the Year award winner continues to breathe new life into Haute Couture and the wider fashion industry has become infatuated with the simplicity of modernity. Roseberry boldly asks, “Has our fixation on what looks or feels modern become a limitation? Has it cost us our imagination?” This collection sets out to eradicate the mundane in fashion, pushing our perceptions of what couture can be—boundless and utterly imaginative. So as the outside world grapples with rising political tensions and social divisions that affect our minds, Roseberry's collection offers viewers a moment of escapism. 

Models gracefully descended the runway at the Petit Palais in a palette of beige, faded jade, black, cream, and gold looks, accompanied by the sounds of Frank Sinatra and the upbeat rhythm of George Michael’s “Father Figure.” These looks showcased Roseberry’s atelier’s experimental techniques: a Schiaparelli blazer, cut in Ultrasuede, embroidered with silk satin threadwork; a nod to Elsa Schiaparelli herself emerged in a plissé halter dress crafted from sand-colored polyamide tulle; and feathers, bathed in glycerin and brushed with keratin, evoked the glamour of the 1930s. 

A standout moment occurred when 2024 Model of the Year nominee Mona Tougaard graced the runway in a metallic grey halter mermaid dress. The dramatic gathering of fabric into a large bow at the back, cascading into a flared train, was a modern reinterpretation of Elsa Schiaparelli’s iconic 1948 design, which reimagined the 19th-century bustle. 

The Parisian couture world has been revitalised by Daniel Roseberry’s brilliance, his ability to push the boundaries of intricate artistry, and his dedication to breathing new life into Schiaparelli’s storied legacy. Unlike Icarus, Roseberry soars beyond the limits, elevating the house higher with every collection.