PFW AW25: Rick Owens

After last season’s cinematic spectacle—a maximalist ode to Hollywood’s glitz and grime—Rick Owens delivered a more introspective collection for AW25 at the Palais de Tokyo. This was Rick in a pensive mood, reexamining his journey as a designer and the essentials that have defined his life and work. The show didn’t just look back at the early days of his career; it zeroed in on his transition from LA to Europe in 2003, a move that transformed not only his production process but also his personal philosophy.

The collection was steeped in autobiography, shaped by years spent traveling between Paris and Concordia, Veneto—the industrial heartland where Owens creates his collections. This restless existence was reflected in his latest collaboration: a custom bronze carry-on case with Rimowa. Lined with luxurious black leather, it’s a symbol of the designer’s philosophy of asceticism and mobility. The case encapsulates Owens’s belief in living minimally, where every item must serve a purpose while exuding the highest level of craftsmanship.

This ethos carried over into the clothes. Owens reimagined wardrobe staples through his singular lens: tailored melton coats in vampiric black and Beuysian felted wool; cropped shearling jackets hacked off at the rib cage; and workwear-inspired blousons in coated poplin and waxed leather. Even his signature platform boots took on a utilitarian edge, with rounded, non-slip soles designed for stability and endurance.

Despite the practical focus, the collection didn’t shy away from drama. Fringed leather boots, laser-cut and woven by Parisian designer Victor Clavelly, shimmered with a sense of the surreal. Rubber-fringed tops by Matisse Di Maggio added a sculptural dimension, transforming utilitarian garments into wearable art. These show-stopping pieces exemplified Owens’s commitment to innovation and collaboration, proving that even in moments of reflection, his work continues to push boundaries.

The cast was another evolution of last season’s inclusive shift. Once again, Owens featured larger bodies on the runway, a deliberate move to expand his vision of beauty and functionality. These choices felt authentic, building on the foundation he established with his 200-model extravaganza in Hollywood. Owens’s clothes have always resonated with outsiders and nonconformists, and it’s clear he’s committed to representing them in his shows as well.

At its core, the AW25 collection was a meditation on necessity and adaptability. By stripping away the excess, Owens revealed an appreciation for the essentials: garments that are functional yet extraordinary, minimal yet profound. It’s a testament to his ability to reimagine his past while firmly grounding his work in the present—and, as always, leaving us eager to see where he’ll go next.