PFW AW25: Paul Smith

Paul Smith’s AW25 collection took viewers on an evocative journey through the personal style of some of the 20th century’s most iconic photographers. Presented in the intimate confines of the brand’s Paris headquarters, the collection feels like a love letter to photography’s influence—not just on Sir Paul’s life, but on fashion as a whole.

The palette is rich and moody, awash with the liquid tones of Saul Leiter’s pioneering colour photography—inky blues, deep burgundies, and shadowy greens—while the collection’s softly disheveled tailoring nods to the lived-in elegance of legendary photographers like David Bailey and Terence Donovan. It’s a celebration of the kind of uniform that evolves from years of daily wear, imbued with a quiet confidence and authenticity.

At the heart of the collection lies the ‘Field Flower’ print, a vivid photoprint that feels both nostalgic and modern. This standout motif, drawn from the work of Harold B. Smith—Sir Paul’s father and an amateur photographer—underscores the deeply personal nature of this collection. From jacquard knitwear to statement eveningwear, the ‘Field Flower’ appears in varying iterations, demonstrating its versatility and poetic charm.

Tailoring, a Paul Smith hallmark, takes on a playful irreverence this season. Classic fabrics like herringbone wool are laundered for a softer, more lived-in feel. Prince of Wales and houndstooth checks are blown up to oversized proportions, subverting their traditional roles. Even accessories and footwear adopt these exaggerated patterns, creating a sense of cohesion despite the disdain for tradition.

Adding to my personal excitement for this collection is the debut of Paul Smith Loves Barbour, a collaboration that blends two titans of British fashion. Barbour’s iconic waxed jackets are reimagined with Paul Smith’s signature humour and curiosity—think patchwork constructions, unconventional colours, and even a whimsical Friesian cow motif.

The collection’s storytelling extends beyond the runway. Sir Paul himself walked the intimate audience through the highlights, offering glimpses into the ideas behind the season’s offerings. It’s a collection that is all about balance—much like the photographers who inspired it.

Ultimately, Paul Smith AW25 is a masterclass in how clothing can capture and honour the creative worlds that shape us. It’s not just about what we wear, but the stories we carry with us—captured like photographs.

CREDITS

Styling - Ben Schofield

Casting - Ben Grimes

Hair - Claire Grech

Make-up - Mel Arter

Music - Andrew Hale & Peter Smith