NYFW SS25: Sam Finger

New York City based designer and innovator by trade, Sam Finger finds the delicate crossroads between toned-down “utilitarian basics” all the way to “deconstructed couture”. Upon initial viewing, I could easily see these works slinking through many underground raves and parties in London. UNFOLD and Riposte in particular, immediately came to mind.

Sam Finger’s GOOD MORNING AMERICA was presented at Wonderland Gentlemen's Club. The concept? A dissection and recomposition of the American dystopian landscape. These garments do not beg for your attention, rather you’re compelled by nature of their existence. Despite previous collections being limited to rather neutral colourways - fear not, intrigue does not waver in absence of bright colours or expressive patterns. 

These pieces beckon you closer. Impressive at arms length only becomes more intoxicating, near seductive, the closer you get. Each stitch tells you a secret about another hidden nuance in each garments’ construction. As the evening inched closer, attendees were in for a grungy sensual treat. The brand’s ethos of celebrating unwavering confidence as it laps into compassion, promotes individual expression in its many forms. The presentation was engaging from start to finish as models sauntered in and around audience members, inexplicably drawn to each other. The collection and show were delightfully deviant and sexy. These works create new pathways to understand fashion as it infiltrates identity and the way each wearer can claim authority over themselves in new forms. 

Heavy bass and american-classics overlapped throughout the soundtrack of the evening, creating an ominous yet intriguing quality to the show. There were moments where scream tracks permeated the space, while two gargantuan screens presented visuals of fire, street chases, graffiti, people screaming and disjointed dancing as individuals skulked across the stage. Donning heavy makeup and exaggerated hairstyles, models sunk into their surrounding environment as they seductively slunk up stairwells. Attendees watched performances as models sat on the stage and danced to the music, eyes interlocked with each other.

Each look seemed to occupy a specific character in the show. A dishevelled red and white gingham American-pie-like ensemble was styled with exaggerated teasing of blonde hair. A model in neon-red contacts and all black danced as if compelled by bass hits as they impacted each movement. An individual in exaggerated black lipstick and mohawk ambled around the stage, wearing an american flag over their shoulders. As the show went on, they placed the flag onto other models throughout the course of the evening. An ‘angel of death’ character in all black with glowing wings looked outwardly into the venue on an overhead platform. We were awestruck as they leaned over the railing, seductively waving at guests. The event seemed to fluctuate in cycles. Models came out individually to sit amongst one another on the stage looking into the crowd. Slowly they broke away one by one, only to come back again. 

A focus on sustainability is a common feature in recent trends as new designers claim portions of the spotlight. Sam Finger joins the rally call for a more environmentally sound fashion scene and a healthier earth. Diversity and sustainability are core principles that this brand builds itself off of, “characterised by inclusivity, ethically produced materials and artisanal dye practices”. This brand’s origins teem with up-cycling and one-of-a-kind garments. 

Over time these practices have further expanded into a slow-developed, ready-to-wear business model. Collections include women’s pieces, men’s workwear essentials and unisex silhouettes. Otherwise box-able neutral toned colour palettes are expelled by asymmetrical hemlines, layered velvet, leather and taffeta. Fabric tails flutter in the wind as they envelop the wearer, creating an unspoken dialogue with passersby. The garments have an almost self-tailored quality, where raw hems compliment pain-staking attention to detail. 

I really appreciated that many of the models and the styling of the works paid a special nod to the queer community, and LGBTQ+ expression via fashion. These works are customizable and sensual, allowing the wearer to command their space and utilise fashion to impact a positive sense of self. As the fashion world ebbs and flows, an adjustment to hand-curated looks supersedes previous affinity for all-consuming logos and heavy branding. Sam Finger does a stellar job of expressing expansive emotions and a reinvigoration of nuanced styling via monochrome and overlapping materials. I find that restriction, be it via a single fabric type or limited colour palette, actually compels some of the most interesting stylistic choices. I’ve got my eye on Sam Finger, and can comfortably say - you should too.