NYFW SS25: MALUU

Previously known as Fully Fashioning, MALUU reinvents itself for NYFW SS25’. This collection marks the amalgamation of newfound innovative elements which connote an otherwise effectual year. Muted playfulness is interspersed throughout this series of garments via quirky patterns and sensibly placed pops of colour. MALUU leads us down a new path toward an intentionally layered and detail-oriented refinement.

New Wave attended an intimate presentation which allowed up close and personal engagement with the garments. It’s one thing to watch outfits sashay across the runway, a bit removed and spotlighted. Entirely another, to hold the material in one’s hands and review with acute eyes. I found this was a special way to properly dig into the detail and craftsmanship of each piece. The space was warmly lit, decorated with mid-century modern furniture and natural light via large windows. We were able to speak at length about the fashion label’s purpose and the meaning behind its new branding. We gained a little more insight into MALUU’s creative direction which instigated the nuanced colour palettes and structural design of the garments.

MALUU’s SS25’ palette expands in an updated direction whilst maintaining a quintessential range of calming foundational hues. Shades of wine, deep blue, and green present in tandem with neutral tones of white, grey and black. The collection consists primarily of separates, full length skirts and two-part conjoined dresses, not to mention - sleeveless and long sleeve tops. Maxi skirts unfurl outward, unveiling hues of blue and pale green as multi-coloured panels are textured together with heavy stitching. Abstract floral-like patterning is separated by heather grey and wine racing stripes which cut between the main body and sleeves of the pieces.

Two models were present and adorned in the fashion brand for guests to view the works, off rack. This knitwear specific brand presented a wide range of pieces crafted from ethically sourced, textured yarns. Asymmetrical details on inner sleeves popped within monochrome three piece sets which could be worn entirely independent of each other. Sage green bases were patterned with white and black abstract motifs. Exaggerated distressed cutouts created symmetric structures against the wearer’s body.

Works of note include the Suki dress, a one-piece bolero- style midi knit dress made from a silk/linen blended yarn. The Jacqi cardigan, Jera top, and Jere fishtail skirt set are knitted from a recycled nylon/cotton blended yarn, which provides a suede-like texture.

This collection takes inspiration from Joseph Havel’s creative artistry with this season’s refreshed interpretation of stripped knitwear. High quality materials and textured layering become a central focus, captivating onlookers. Additionally each garment has been curated with a sense of artistic expression and necessitates optic enticement. MALUU has taken a deliberate step forward but hasn’t forgotten the beauty of its past creations. I’ll be curious to see where this newfound creative exhilaration takes the brand next.