NYFW SS25: 5000

Image: Kiera Simpson (@kiers)

Oakland-based brand 5000 unveils a presentation in admiration of Mabuhay Gardens, Taking place on September 10th during NYFW SS25’, The presentation paid homage to the iconic West Coast punk scene. The gorgeous New York Marble Cemetery became 5000’s home for a couple of hours, whilst models strode through the greenery in awe-drawing garments whilst atmospheric music settled overtop of this brand’s tactfully disobedient spirit. 

Mabuhay Gardens, also known as “The Mab”, was a “gritty music venue in San Francisco’s North Beach. The venue, which was originally a Filipino restaurant, became a central social hub for punk and new wave music. Representing a collision of creativity and chaos, 5000’s SS25’ collection asks its’ viewer to renvison the way we view punk fashion. It asks us to reinvision the ways it can integrate into our everyday wardrobe without reducing the weight of this cultural significance. 

Image: Kiera Simpson (@kiers)

The presentation featured sounds by Bapari, a Haitian-American musician, producer and DJ. A four time Boiler Room performer, in addition to already being one of my favourite NYC based musicians, our interest was immediately sparked. Their work has received much critical acclaim, with their track “Daybreak” being named “best track of 2021” by Resident Advisor. Bapari’s unique sound combined with 5000’s creative vision proved to create an unmistakable and memorable presentation.

Directed by Taylor Thompson, previous collections allowed strong silhouettes and limited colour palettes to tell a story of ruggedness juxtaposed with delicate-around-the-edges details. 5000 is a brand dedicated to more than interesting plays on mixed fabrics and powerful styling choices, it’s also about developing a culture around its collections. 

Image: Kiera Simpson (@kiers)

As guests walked into the cemetery grounds, the beating new york sun was diffused by pale white plastic umbrellas. Paraded by models with silver handles, this element of the show drew the eye to central points across the grounds which were rather large. If not for the umbrellas it may have been difficult to separate the models from attendees as they freely walked the cemetery exchanging eye contact with attendees. Many were cracking conversation with each other and guests as we were immersed in 5000’s world. Neutral greys, whites, blacks and browns were broken up by attentively placed teals and purples. A stand out piece was a pair of silver crinkle trouser shorts.

Taking inspiration from the surrounding environment and natural world, 5000 allows its softness to imbue harder seam lines and structured materials. The implications that come with a constantly fluctuating human existence settle over superimposed hemlines and create emotional impact without any exchanging of words. In an interview with One37, Thompson expressed, “I try to force people to think when it comes to clothes”. This sentiment was clearly achieved with the garments we experienced at the cemetery. 

Image: Kiera Simpson (@kiers)

The collection consisted of structured suit jackets, button detail, and exaggerated rectangular overlapping pockets. Garment materials were varied, including small print chequered fabrics, large pin stripes, and colour shift purple to grey metallics. Short trousers were given an update, expanding outward halfway down the trouser leg into wider, skirt-like forms. Models were wearing ‘5000’ print black and white athletic-looking socks. Creating a playfulness between casual sportiness and elevated formalwear. Playing into nods toward the west coast punk scene, models were dramatically ornamented with black lipstick and heavy circular eye makeup. Each of the makeup looks were doused in a generous layer of glitter, providing contrast as the sun flickered across the collection. 

As a California based brand, stepping into the NY fashion scene necessitates different perspectives about clothing and the way that it can impact more than just the wearer. Working around the notion that fashion should make you think, Thompson’s creative direction has clearly led the ever-evolving brand to new heights. They say “the bigger they are the harder they fall”, but in 5000’s case it seems a strong foundation via sturdy composition and stringent hemlines paired with occasional fluttering chiffon, will undoubtedly hold the brand in place.