NYFW: Highlights From The Spring/Summer 2022 Runway

Photo: Hatnim Lee

With a year and a half of restrictions, the events of 2020 meant that New York Fashion Week had no choice but to take place virtually – with only a limited number of shows taking place in person at the start of 2021. Kicking off on September 8th and winding down on the 12th, NYFW came back with a bang as the catwalks were set for both newcomers and Fashion Week veterans alike. Here is a roundup of some of New Wave’s favourite collections to hit the New York runways this season.

Peter Do

Photos: Vogue

Taking your designs from the drawing board to the runway is an impressive feat in itself – but having your runway debut take place at New York Fashion Week is something that many new designers only dream of. Launched in 2018, Peter Do’s eponymous label has seen several seasons, with the brand’s latest showcase serving as his seventh collection. However, with half of the label’s three-year existence being during the COVID-19 pandemic, it’s no surprise that his garments have not seen the runway until late 2021. The Vietnamese-born designer, however, is not a complete newbie to the fashion world – his CV includes training under fashion legend Phoebe Philo at Céline.

Leaving a handwritten note to the show’s guests, Do clarifies that the collection is of sentimental value to him – as he compares the creative process of building the collection to fond memories of cooking pho with his father. The SS22 show, entitled “HOME”, uses Manhattan’s skyline as a backdrop, and features workwear-esque clothing across a mostly neutral colour palette. Despite the minimalist aesthetic, a refreshing twist is added to the attire. From floor-length dress shirts detailed with pleats to asymmetrical silk skirts – Peter Do plays around with the tailoring, fit and layering of the garments to create modern looks that don’t compromise on the sharp, crisp nature of traditional work attire.

Private Policy

Photos: Vogue

New York-based brand Private Policy is known for using the city’s downtown streetwear as their main source of inspiration. Using high-quality textures and fabrics, creative directors Haoran Li and Siying Qu seek to create collections of genderless clothing. As the show unravels, the colour sequence of the collection almost tells a story of its own – it travels from shades of purple skirts, mesh pants and tops to black and more neutral tones; before revealing striking sage green and blue pieces.

However, Private Policy saves the collection’s most eye-catching and daring pieces for the end of the show. In the final three looks, flowers are placed on silver beaded ‘barely there’ silhouettes – which are used as tank tops and dresses.

Eckhaus Latta

Photos: Vogue

As we look back on what was hopefully the worst of the pandemic, most would probably describe themselves as feeling freer in the post-lockdown world. This feeling of freedom is exactly what creative directors Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta were seeking to encapsulate in their SS22 collection. Eckhaus described the ready-to-wear collection to Vogue as “really feeling yourself, coming out of the past year-and-a-half and wanting to feel sexy and confident and free”.

Notably, most of the pieces are made of light, airy fabrics – many also with risqué cutouts. Alongside their completely see-through silhouettes and colourful knit pieces, another interesting theme that is repeated through the collection is their unconventional use of buttons. On some pieces, buttons are placed from head to toe, forming various vertical, horizontal and curved patterns along the arms, legs and midsection.

Et Ochs

Photos: Vogue

After a successful 10 years in business together, designers Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs decided to go their separate ways in 2018 – leaving Ochs to launch her brand new label, Et Ochs. Loyal fans of the designer may have noticed a slight difference in her SS22 collection, particularly the jump from a ‘glammed up’ style to a more laid-back, relaxed look. During her break from fashion, Ochs had two children. This pivotal life experience has led to her quest to create pieces that, while still timeless and elegant, are designed for comfort.

The SS22 collection consists of flare silhouettes, alongside alluring slinky dresses and boxy shirts. Despite the more practical theme of the collection, the looks are far from lacklustre as Ochs elevates most pieces by adding unconventional (but not over-the-top) cutouts and slits – and the designer even throws a few sequined evening garments into the mix.

Theophilio

Photos: Vogue

Contemporary clothing brand Theophilio introduces New York City to the islands in its SS22 collection. Sending Air Jamaica plane tickets as invites, the proudly Jamaican-born designer Edvin Thompson used his latest collection as an opportunity to take his guests on a much-needed getaway – all whilst paying homage to his roots.

The catwalk consisted of pieces that perfectly capture New York’s edgy and eclectic street style, however, the darker and more neutral colours that typically graze the city were swapped out for warm, tropical shades – reminiscent of the bright colours associated with Jamaica. Most noticeable were the various garments – including a catsuit, halter dress, and a skirt and dress co-ord, that rep the colours of the Rastafarian flag.

Luar

Photos: Hatnim Lee

Creative director Raul Lopez cleverly uses Laur’s SS22 collection as a metaphor for his own feelings and personal journey. The collection begins with rough silhouettes of denim and other thick fabrics and textures, all of which Lopez refers to as “Luar’s DNA”. As the show progresses, the garments become softer – with fabrics like French crepes and silks being introduced into the collection. Lopez likens this progression to the process of him opening up and showing who he is on the inside – beyond the tough exterior. “It’s like I’m finally showing the pearl that’s inside, you know? I’m letting my guard down and showing something more elevated” he tells Dazed.

Luar SS22 is noticeably more accessible than previous collections, and Lopez suggests that most of the pieces are practical in that they can easily be dressed up or down. Many of the latter models don lavender athleisure, while in certain looks the term ‘smart-casual’ is taken to the next level – by combining crisp, clean shirts and silk-satin ties with gym shorts.

Telfar

Black-owned brand Telfar has gone from strength to strength over the past few years. Founded in 2004, the fashion house has shot to fame in recent years – particularly due to the buzz surrounding their unisex shopping bags. Prioritising inclusivity, Telfar Celemens ensures that his line is not identity-based, but rather open to all – despite race, gender or class.

On Sunday, the brand ditched the traditional Fashion Week runway show in favour of a press conference – with a panel consisting of A$AP Ferg, Teezo Touchdown, Leilah Weinraub and Ian Isiah. During the conference, Telfar unveiled their newest item – a duffel bag ranging in sizes small to large with the famous “TC” logo embedded on each side.

At the event, the label also announced the launch of Telfar.tv – a television channel that will feature shows created in Telfar’s studio and submissions from viewers. Rather than their usual drops, which to their frustration have been dominated by bots, their newest pieces will be released irregularly on Telfar.tv. From now on, viewers will have to scan a unique QR code shown on the screen to purchase the products shown.