New Wave: Top 50 Fashion Brands Of 2022

As we approach the festive season, we take the time to reflect and elevate on the Top Fashion brands of 2022. Brands that embody creativity, innovation, inspirational qualities to their collections/collaborations. Brands that bring out the best in the Fashion Industry, the most inspiring, trendy and electrifying to the moment you will never forget.

With so many brands to watch out for, we can never ignore the amazing talent from the established to the emerging designers presented at Fashion Week throughout the Fashion Capitals – London, Paris, New York, Milan, not to mention within our retailers and online presence.

One thing they all have in common is each one is daring, not afraid to step out of their comfort zone and present what they can do and embrace their passion for Fashion.

Here are New Wave’s Top 50:

1. Givenchy

This January, Matthew M. Williams will show his first haute couture collection for Givenchy. “It’s been drawn; we’ve just started the toiles,” he revealed during a preview for his first live show with an audience since he joined the house at the start of the pandemic. Underpinned by his couture aspirations, his third ready-to-wear collection was like a release of grandiose proportions: a massive explosion of ideas and ambitions bottled up for too long, until finally the cork popped.

2. Salvatore Ferragamo

3. Alexander McQueen

One of the main symbols of British couture, the late Alexander McQueen’s collections have been known for their creative experimentation while celebrating traditional craftsmanship. Founded by Lee Alexander McQueen in 1992 – who graduated at Central Saint Martins – and part of the Kering Group since 2001, the brand has been distinctive through unconventional designs and avant-garde fashion shows. Over the years, the House presented its collections through shows that blend fashion with art. Just think of the Spring 1999 ‘No 13’ show where model and former ballerina Shalom Harlow’s dress was spray painted by robots (which Coperni recalled in their recent iconic show in Paris last September). Or the Fall 1998 ‘Joan’ show, that saw models surrounded by fire, with reference to the Catholic martyr of Joan of Arc and the Romanov family.

From creating clothes for David Bowie’s tour in 1996 including the famous Union Jack coat to the appointment of the new Creative Director Sarah Burton after Lee’s death in 2010, the brand has inevitably changed while developing a softer, more feminine touch to the designs. However, Burton showed an intent to go back to McQueen’s original DNA in the Spring/Summer 2023 collection: while still maintaining an idea of humanity, the designer cut back on romance, by creating tighter silhouettes, expert tailoring, elaborate evening dresses and slick bodysuits. A dive in the past that also brought back one of the brand’s first big successes – the “bumster” style, with which McQueen was the kick-starter of the low-rise denim trend. Overall, a collection that also pays homage to Hieronymus Bosch – one of the main artistic inspirations for Lee, who embraced its oddity, celebration of the unusual, and macabre taste.

4. Jean Paul Gautier

In 2021, creative director Florence Tetier said that Gaultier's focus in the coming years would be based on its heritage and the brand’s 2022 projects certainly stuck to this agenda.

For 2022, JPG was all about the re-emergence and re-purposing of former prints and collections, slotting itself nicely into the current nostalgia fever that has taken over the fashion world. They released a collaboration with Y/Project, which reinvented a wide range of JPG’s legendary prints and looks into more modern silhouettes. However the focus must be on their ready to wear collection titled “Cyber” which utilised their iconic dots print and reinvented 90s archives. The collection was specifically inspired by JPG’s “Les Amazones” Fall/Winter 1995-96 collection, and their “Cyberbaba” Spring/Summer 1996 collection two of the brand’s most iconic runway collections and shows, made in the midst of JPG’s costume designing for cult classic ‘The Fifth Element’.

Many will remember the 2022 Fwrd event which celebrated the launch of Gaultier on the shopping website. Hosted by creative director Kendall Jenner, she and others such as Doja Cat and Chloe Bailey donned pieces from the Cyber collection and caused a frenzy online.

If Florence Tetier’s goal was to remind the public of JPG’s iconic fashion history then she certainly succeeded in doing so this year.

5. Moncler

Moncler has undoubtfully been one of the main players within the industry in the last year. Originally starting off in the French locality of Monestier de Clermont in 1952 by producing technical equipment for mountaineering, the brand celebrated its 70 th anniversary in big last September. The performance (set in Milan’s city centre) comprised an entourage of 1,952 artists, all dressed in a white Moncler Maya 70 jacket – a style that Remo Ruffini, the brand’s CEO since 2003, has asked seven designers including Rick Owens and Pharrell Williams to revisit. But this creative collaboration fits in an even broader scenario that is the core of Moncler’s philosophy: Moncler Genius. Within this project, launched in 2018, the conventional figure of a single Creative Director has been abolished: Moncler Genius gives space to the creativity of different exceptional minds that, working together while still keeping their singular identity, give their own, unique expression of the brand’s DNA.

The hub celebrates a dialogue with the customer and allows Moncler to expand and reach out to a diverse audience with different demands (and styles). Among the designers, each producing their own capsule periodically on rotation, we currently find the prestigious names of Jonathan Anderson from JW Anderson, Hideaki Yoshihara and Yukiko Od from HYKE, Craig Green, Matthew M. Williams from 1017 ALYX 9SM, Hiroshi Fujiwara and Francesco Ragazzi from Palm Angels.

The Moncler x Palm Angels and Tod’s collection is only the last example of this fruitful project. An iconic campaign shot in Venice Beach and starring Naomi Cambell where Ragazzi leaves his mark by creating vintage-inspired, post-preppy designs including lamé tracksuits and puffer jackets, flame-covered coats, glittering trousers and branded waistbands.

6. Ahluwalia

Founded in 2018 by designer Priya Ahluwalia, fashion label Ahluwalia is regarded the “intersection between the near and far, past and present”. The brand distinctly draws on elements from Priya’s Indian-Nigerian heritage – combined with her London roots.

The element of repurposing vintage materials is central to the brand – Ahluwalia is committed to giving materials a new life and ensuring that the women creating the label’s garments are paid fairly. In 2020, Priya Ahluwalia made the Forbes 30 under 30 ‘Art & Culture’ Europe list, solidifying her role as a trailblazer positively impacting the future of fashion and the arts.

This year, Ahluwalia's AW22 collection was launched – a stunning tribute to Priya’s love for Bollywood and Nollywood and a reflection on the impact that both film industries had on her youth. Debuted at London Fashion Week, From Nollywood to Bollywood marked the brand's first collection to hit the runway. Its release was accompanied by Beloved, a film directed by Priya exploring these cultural themes and the topic of love in everyday life.

The Ahluwalia x The Woolmore Agency collection was launched later in the year - also heavily inspired by the cinematography of Nollywood and Bollywood. The label’s SS23 Africa is Limitless similarly brings Africa to the forefront by celebrating its culture, creativity and diversity.

In 2022, Ahluwalia also released their second collaboration with Danish luxury label Ganni. With a focus on denim, the collection utilises upcycled materials to create standout pieces such as a cut-out dress, trench coats, a suit and a chic beret. Ahluwalia’s designs have recently been donned by stars such as Keke Palmer, Michaela Coel and Kehlani.

7. Nensi Dojaka

If you are looking for a selection of clothing that displays a statement and shows off the incredible form of the female body, then London-based brand Nensi Dojaka ticks all of the boxes. The Albanian womenswear designer knows how to dress a woman with confidence. In 2020, Dojaka successfully graduated from the prestigious Central Saint Martins and has flourished from strength to strength by achieving the opportunity of presenting at creative agency Fashion East.

Her first S/S 22 rendition, she made sure her eponymous line makes a powerful statement expressing the female form amongst her strong signature styling of cut out panels within her variety of designs such as the beautiful sultry dresses and appealing separates.

With her striking execution to womenswear, Dojaka successfully accomplished multiple wins along her career journey and still today is thriving as a raising star, her past wins includes the British Fashion Council prize and her well-received 2021 LVMH trophy for emerging talent. Not to mention, gaining recognition from renowned retailers Ssense, MatchesFashion, Selfridges, My Theresa for her popular graduate collection which consist of enticing experimentation with layers and numerous variety of sheer fabrics that makes up Dojaka’s strong identity within her design concepts.

As well as retailers catching Dojaka’s memorising talents, her eponymous label has been seen around town sporting on renowned celebrities such as Iris Law, Bella Hadid, Carey Mulligan, and Sophie Turner etc. Influenced by the magazines from the early 90’s era, Dojaka’s ethos is bringing women together and embracing the social acceptance of body positivity and encouraging women to be bold and confident in their own skin. Design concepts revealing sections of cut-out panels, sheer/mesh panelling, strapless backs, minimal thin straps to show engaging bare shoulders in order to execute a fresh modern take to womenswear fashion.

8. Craig Green

Daring London designer Craig Green never ceases to amaze people by exploring avenues of creativity, starting from multiple levels of craftsmanship, utility, uniform, voluminous textual silhouettes that is out of this world. Presenting gender statement pieces that reveals Green’s best work has made him a household name to watch.

Throughout the seasons, Green’s work has manifested into melting pot of innovation that has inspired future young designers to explore every avenue and create what they inspire to create but at the same time this creator has become an industry-wide figure to watch out for as you don’t know what he could come out with next. I have no doubt, it will be something creative, exciting and explosive.

Craig Green is a fashion moment to remember and never forget. Editor-At-Large Tim Blanks stated “Craig Green is fearless in his idealism. His clothes are grand gestures, but they're poetic and romantic too. People sobbed at his London Fashion Week Mens spring 2015 show. Fashion craves that emotion.”

Scooping up numerous amount of attention from not only the press but from acclaimed retailers such as Comme des Garcons, luxury online presence Farfetch, and Selfridges. Known for his flamboyant colour range in his collections, his design concepts scream unique, amazing and wearable but more importantly a distinctive statement piece to wear such as inflatable accessories to match with outfits paired with vast amounts of textures to play with.

In his 2022 A/W season, he stepped into another realm of innovation by instructing his models down the catwalk with inflatable toys, beach lilos, sheets of latex, bringing together a sense of transformation, newness and the approach to wearing clothes that doesn’t have to be one thing but a collection of items that is put together to make one whole outfit, achieving a top to bottom/head-to-toe look.

9. Acne Studios

Ambition to Create Novel Expression, better known as Acne Studios, taps into several arenas of creativity including art, architecture and photography. The Swedish brand, which originally started as a graphic design and advertising collective in 1997, is revered for their contemporary design and ‘maximal minimalism’ – as founder Johnny Johansson defines it. Acne Studios is a main component in the rerise in popularity of Scandi fashion and style in 2022.

With a campaign fronted by Spanish superstar Rosalía, the brand’s FW22 Ready-to-Wear collection explores ‘emotional patchworking’, reworking materials and reframing traditional ideas of what is defined as ‘finished’. The collection focuses on the beauty of repair, creating new things from the resources that already exist in our surroundings.

While their signature mohair checked scarves have particularly been trending in 2022, Acne Studios also celebrated the 10th anniversary of their first Paris show during the label’s SS23 show. Inspired by ceremonial weddings, the collection was showcased at Paris Fashion Week through an engaging ‘wedding party’ style display – and elements of these long-held traditions were cleverly interpreted into the label’s everyday clothing.

Acne Studios has been famously spotted on stars such as Rihanna and Sophie Turner this year.

10. Jawara Alleyne

Fashion East’s roster continues to hold unbridled talent, this time in the form of 30 year old London-based designer Jawara Alleyne. Showcasing his first runway show for Fashion East this year, the Carribean creative continues to explore important topics and push boundaries through his collections and eponymous brand.

Pulling from themes of sustainability, heritage, cultural exchange, freedom from constraints, and reimaginings, Alleyne presented two stunning collections this year; both of which explore important topics through the medium of fashion from the collection themes to the types of material used.

With talent like this , it's no wonder the industry is watching with Vogue and British GQ styling his collections on the likes of Bella Hadid and ShyGirl, respectively, for editorials.

What's most exciting about Alleyne is his drive to reach beyond the runway, and enact actual change. He has previously spoken of his plans to aid the creative community in the Caribbean through his ‘Art through Fashion Summer Programme and Art Residency’. Planning to first launch in the Cayman Islands, and then expand to neighbouring countries, the Residency will collaborate with Cayman cultural institutes to provide a way for talent from his community to thrive. Both on and off the runway, Jawara Alleyne is making moves and we cannot wait to see what he brings next.

11. Jacqemus

Jacquemus have had an incredible year as a brand. Opening their first flagship store in Paris in September and three stellar collections, Simon Porte Jacquemus is a shining example of making his way through the ranks to the upper echelons of fashion influence. Jaquemus is also at the forefront of inventive runway presentation, using unusual locations and impressive settings to create a memorable spectacle. The brand’s SS22 show, which was presented in March, saw the designer take to Oahu in Hawaii, lining the beach with a striking blue runway. For AW22 in June, Jaquemus took guests to a salt mountain range in the South of France and his most recent show, SS23, which took place a few days ago, models walked the runway that rained with straw. This desire to make the shows exciting highlights Jacquemus’ unique role in fashion today and how he highlights the importance of viewing fashion as something to enjoy. With an industry that is frequently weighed down with various negativities, Jacquemus and his desire to have fun, both with his shows and his brand, is a breath of fresh air. Aside from his runways, Jacquemus has also had an impressive year of successful collaborations. In May, Jacquemus and Nike announced their first-ever collaboration, which promised to be a “celebration of the multidimensionality of contemporary athletes.” With sport being a central inspiration to Jacquemus, the collab was a natural fit and was received with reverence from critics and fans alike. Having arguably one of the most successful and talked about brands of this year, we can’t wait to see how Jacquemus will top it in 2023.

12. David Koma

13. Thierry Mugler

14. Dion Lee

15. Wales Bonner

16. Mihara Yasuhiro

For Mihara Yasuhiro 2022 has been a year of creative melancholy. With the 25th anniversary of the brand and his 50th birthday looming large he granted himself an early gift by journeying back to his roots. In the Fall 2022 collection, he continued to imprint his heritage, drawing inspiration from his 90’s Tokyo. This was a time when the Japanese fashion scene strived to emulate American and European Trends,

He translated his ‘self-culture’ in oversized bomber jackets, tailored suits, bold knits, versatile trench coats and endless denim. Each piece was in his signature style of military and American casual silhouettes with Japanese youth influence. He dressed his past into our present on the runway through the 25 pieces, most of which he pulled from his archive.

For the show, he brought us home with him to Asakusa, a renowned district in Tokyo. We lavished on local delicacies from street vendors; and partway through the runway, became part of his performance in which a police car gate crashed. The confusion was cured by Mihara himself floating out of the vehicle armoured with feather wings and aviator glasses. As the pieces left the stage, confetti descended with a local band treating our auditories. We were reminded of his distinct humour and how through his daring collections and eponymous shoe label ‘Maison Mihara Yasuhiro’-since 1998 he continues to unapologetically make a scene.

Mihara Yasuhiro began in footwear, creating his first line as a student at Tama Art institute. Here he gained traction for his modern and eclectic designs from brands like PUMA. In 1997 post-graduation. He launched his brand, in which he began to present his elevated monochromatic collections like the ss22 collection where he dipped into a familial landscape of denim, jackets and more. Since his early factory days, he’s continued to make waves from the BED JW Ford collaboration to reimagining bowling shoes with Nigel Carbourn.

17. AGGI

Inspired by the style of the '70s and '80s combined with more contemporary trends, AGGI brings a needed splash of colour to womenswear and the fashion world. The vibrant Polish label is created for women who like to experiment with colour and texture – and those that want clean-tailored clothes that accentuate their figures.

Founded by designer Agata Halewska, the brand is a favourite in 2022 amongst influential women in fashion – including Elle Macpherson and Elsa Hosk. Each piece is created in its studio in Cracow, and exclusively utilises materials from Europe and vegan alternatives to fur and leather.

18. Martine Rose

2022 has been a year of significant collaborations for Martine Rose. From working with Kendrick Lamar on his Big Steppers tour, which the rapper labelled “bucket list” material on Instagram, to dropping her capsule collection with Tommy Hilfiger, Rose has gone from strength to strength over the past 12 months. In October, it was announced that she will be the next guest designer at Pitti Uomo, the largest menswear fair in the world, and will debut her collection in January 2023.

This appointment, having also been held by Diesel’s current Creative Director Glenn Martens in 2019, hints at even bigger things in Rose’s future. With 2022 also being the year rumours started to swirl regarding her appointment as Creative Director of Louis Vuitton, it is not a stretch to say Martine Rose’s star is only at the beginning of its astronomic climb. However, having founded her brand in 2007, Rose has undoubtedly earned her stripes and her impact on the industry, particularly this year, cannot be understated.

Coined by GQ as ‘Fashion’s Last Subcultural Brand’, Rose incorporates significant cultural observations, such as football hooliganism and back-alley dealings, which are less traditionally recognised by mainstream fashion houses. This focus on the underbelly of the mainstream has meant Rose has firmly established herself as one of fashion’s ‘coolest’ designers and in turn, has grasped the attention of celebrities ranging from Drake to Hailey Beiber.

It’s no secret that Rose is one of fashion’s most exciting designers and the stellar year she has had only showcases how much more there is to come in 2023.

19. Humanrace

Founded by artist and musician Pharrell Williams, his brand Humanrace celebrates the aspiration of wellbeing. From the beginning, he wanted to demonstrate what he has learnt from his wellness experience but at the same time teach others to make time to take care of themselves internally as well as externally.

Humanrace offers a framework of products to encourage each of us as individuals to find time in our everyday lives for a place of wellness and selfcare. Celebrating wellbeing is the brand’s core value and identity to stop and pay attention.

Humanrace is an asset that gives everyone a chance to be part of this brand. The products are accessible to anyone and everyone, bringing togetherness, love and positive energy. The product offering is available in skincare, body-care, sun-care, as well as the popular Humanrace ongoing clothing line collaboration with renowned sportswear brand Adidas since 2014.

Starting out as Pharrell William’s notion to Stan Smith sneakers, the brand has since grown and developed into a eye-catching ready-to-wear accessible collection acknowledging the beauty of Humanrace. Since the recent A/W 22 capsule collection, the brand has picked up numerous attention due to the comfort of its wearable hoodies, loungewear pants, and sweatshirts emphasizing an all-gender contemporary look that is suitable for everyday with a vision of streetwear as its core design concept. Combined with a modern execution to streetwear, we look forward to see what else Mr Pharrell Williams will come up with next. Stay tuned for 2023!

20. Kiko Kostadinov

21. Off White

Off White is one brand that undertook quite a significant milestone this year. With the sad passing of its founder and CEO Virgil Abloh in November 2021, Off White appointed Ib Kamara, who is also the current Editor-In-Chief of Dazed, as its new Artistic Director in April. Debuting his first collection for SS23 this September, Kamara showcased his ability to push the brand forward whilst still paying homage to Abloh.

With the invitation noting that the show would highlight “pillars that Virgil embodied: togetherness, kindness, freedom of thought, and ultimately, what it is to be human”, the collection celebrated the late designer but was not confined by his signature looks. This allowed Kamara to establish his new vision for the brand and showcased why he was the right man for the job. The collection, which included stomach cut-outs, lace face covers and embroidery referencing body and form, was met with reverence from critics.

Having also paid due respect to Abloh in their AW22 show, which saw names like Serena Williams, Alton Mason and Bella Hadid walk in Abloh’s posthumous designs, Off White have had an emotional but important year. The significance of Off White brand cannot be understated, as it still paves the way for the blend between streetwear and high fashion, as well as being a stage which celebrates black talent within the industry. It’s because of this that Kamara’s success this year is a welcome sight and why we look forward to what he has to offer in 2023.

22. The Own Studio

The modern elegant bridal brand The OWN Studio has redefined that special moment for all women. Co-founders and creators - Jess Kaye and Rosie Williams giving us a touch of fresh insight into the buzzing world of bridalwear. A chance for every bride to be unique in their own way. It is a joyful moment! An opportunity to celebrate the most perfect moments.

With the brand: The OWN Studio following the concept of “Shaping Your Own Bridal Wardrobe”, they have found a way to make it distinctive and take an innovative perspective by choosing details of layering that is suitable for daywear as well as evening wear. It’s a key to pulling off the ideal ultimate wedding range for the exquisite bride and their wedding guests.

This brand is committed to striving as far as it can and willing to step it up a notch, a plan of action to expand its ideas and elevate its contemporary line and detailing for the year 2023. Each luxury piece is designed to become apart of a luxe occasional item hidden away in your wardrobe ready for the perfect day arrive. With nearly 20K worth of followers under their belt, numerous attention keeps on pouring in from press to publications as the brand continues to expand.

Since the exposure of their recent range this year, eye-catching separates scream perfect for the wedding wardrobe, silhouettes to play with as long as the option to restyle items you can wear more than once, suitable for before and after the perfect wedding parties.

For details such as layering among fresh separates, the brand is keen to explore a range of styles representing elegance in an effortless sense of style. The collection involves radiant fitted silhouettes, introducing sizeable shapes and the same time, maintaining a picture-perfect luxury of traditions surrounding the confident modern woman in her special wedding attire.

23. Daily Paper

Amsterdam-based label Daily Paper has established itself as a fashion staple for the culture since its launch in 2012. Founded by childhood friends Jefferson Osei, Hussein Suleiman and Abderrahmane Trabsini, the streetwear-inspired brand continually celebrates African culture and has been sported by the likes of Imaan Hammam, Dapper Dan, Central Cee and Jay Z in 2022 alone.

Featuring the Moroccan, Somali and Ghanaian flags, Daily Paper’s SS22 Resort Collection was heavily inspired by the heritage of Daily Paper’s founders. Similarly, their FW22 collection, Identities Rebuilt, explores the journey taken by parents of the diaspora to live in the West – highlighting the similarities and differences between these parents and their children.

Collaborating with Beats By Dre, the label released their special edition Daily Paper Studio Buds in celebration of the golden era of Hip Hop. Packed with plenty of features, Daily Paper’s exclusive earbuds include Active Noise Cancelling (ANC), up to 24 hours of listening time and one-touch pairing. The exterior of the case features graffiti-style graphics pulled from Daily Paper’s SS22 collection.

Daily Paper also collaborated with Adidas to release Ajax Amsterdam pre-match kits. Released in October, the collab celebrates the multiculturalism of Amsterdam and champions local communities. From athletes to entrepreneurs, creatives and local businesses – Daily Paper x Ajax is a tribute to local game changers.

24. SS Daley

Mr. Stokey-Daley started his label only two years ago during lockdown, designing ethically made garments inspired by the British upper class and vintage influences. But, in only two years, the University of Westminster graduate’s career has already proved to be incredibly successful, as he was the winner of the 2022 LVMH Prize and has also been nominated this year’s emerging designer talent by the British Fashion Council. In particular, the “working- class boy” from Liverpool has been awarded thanks to his ability to tell the story of his designs with a soft approach and to offer styles for individuals of any body shape. Not only that: Daley’s pieces have also become famous as Harry Lambert used some of his designs to style Harry Styles in the “Golden” music video.

His Spring/Summer 2022 runway collection – with which he debuted at the London Fashion Week –made him leave the mark as he officially entered the industry expressing his creativity at its fullest. The designer, working with the National Youth Theatre, presented his collection in a truly moving way by delivering a play that explores coming-of-age moments

for a group of teenagers at both state and private schools. Discussing themes such as the understanding of one’s queer identity, the structure of class and power and the meaning of “masculinity”, the clothes themselves were part of the storytelling throughout a collection that expands across garments such as floral headpieces, trenches cut with balloon sleeves, rugby shorts of vintage inspiration, an oversized sunflower handknit cardigan and silk paisley suit.

25. Anest Collective

Created out of a desire for luxurious and considered menswear and womenswear, ANEST COLLECTIVE was launched in 2017. Crafted in Italy, the Shanghai and Milan-based label was built to be poetic and timeless – its use of quality materials such as wool and cashmere reflecting this approach. Also encompassing art, architecture and design, ANEST COLLECTIVE is keen to represent the creativity of others as well as its own brand.

The label's Autumn/Winter 2022 collection elegantly explores the theme of 'fragmentation' – focusing on the deconstruction and 'stripping back' – and the later reconstruction of garments in ways that create harmony and balance. Staying true to the brand, the collection keeps Italian craftsmanship at its root and makes use of materials such as cashmere, silk and soft calf leather.

ANEST COLLECTIVE has been sported by the likes of actor Tom Hiddleston and artist Sonia Boyce in 2022.

26. KNWLS London

Like many of the other names on this list, KNWLS London, a brand helmed by designers Charlotte Knowles and Alexander Arsenault, has amassed its fair share of acclimations this year. Having launched one of the most viral fashion moments of the year, pairing pop-culture darling Julia Fox with photographer Elizaveta Porodina’s contrasted tones for their Fall 2022 campaign, KNWLS London has become a sort of fashion internet sensation.

Accumulating a fandom filled with other rising stars such as Lila Moss, who KNWLS dressed for the 2022 Fashion Awards and Dixie Damelio, who whore KNWLS for Tiffany& Co’s Miami Pop-Up, KNWLS has carved its space as a brand for the incoming collection of fashion stars. The brand’s reputation for understanding internet culture has proven true once more since the rise of the ‘Frazzled English Woman’ trend on TikTok.

With their AW22 collection featuring FEM staples such as largely opaque tights, striped knits that fall past the wrists and sweet winter hats, KNWLS has proven itself as a brand which can identify trends before the masses. This ability, the one that separates the designers to watch from the rest, has been recognised beyond their celebrity following, as they were announced as finalists for the prestigious LVMH Prize in March this year. With recognition coming in from all angles of the fashion world, KNWLS is definitely a part of the new vanguard of fashion talent and is a brand to have on your radar for 2023.

27. Bianca Saunders

28. Goomheo

Korean-born and London-based, designer Goom Heo is recognised for her unique twist on modern menswear. The CSM alum's eponymous brand creates garments that represent fluidity and are ultimately genderless in form – with her designs making her an LVMH semi-finalist this year.

GOOMHEO's Spring/Summer 2023 collection continues to subvert ideas of modern masculinity with its eclectic campaign, which is centred around the cowboy aesthetic. Described as an "apocalyptic fever dream", the campaign captures the notably very denim collection in ways that are inspired by the work of Swiss photographer Karlheinz Weiburger in the '50s and '60s.

Pieces from the label's dynamic SS23 collection have already been spotted on popular figures, such as Little Simz and Shania Twain.

29. Corteiz

As founder and owner Clint always says, Corteiz has the approval of the streets and this year is no different. Corteiz continues to speedily rise to the top of the U.K. streetwear scene, gaining more and more notoriety every year.

Founded in 2017, the London - based brand solidified its place on the scene and in the minds of the youth all throughout 2022. Their Bolo jackets and cargos proved to be massive hits, with many online and on the (literal) streets racing to cop a pair of both.

It was through these pieces that the power of Corteiz really shined through this year - enter ‘Da Great Bolo Exchange’ and their iconic 99p cargo drop. It takes a special kind of power to have thousands of people running through the streets of Shepard’s Bush to buy a pair of cargos; and yet Corteiz made it look easy, their 99p cargo drop prompting hundreds to rally across Central London in an attempt to cop a pair. The Bolo Exchange was even more indicative of the status that they have gained - again hundreds came out extremely short notice, this time to swap their own puffer jackets for a Corteiz Bolo. Jackets valuing over £800 at resell prices were swapped for the CRTZ puffer which had originally been priced at £175 - Nike’s, North Face‘s and Supreme’s all swapped for a CRTZ - if that doesn’t show relevancy then, what does!

Through social media the brand has seen a rise too - at the start of the year, Corteiz had just reached 200k followers on Instagram and as it stands is currently now enroute to 450k. Twitter too; the TL will always be active with people searching around for the site password of one of their infamous online drops once it’s been announced or full of videos from one of their drops. Social media has always been the brands strong point from a marketing stance, and they continue to thrive and garner attention and respect from the industry and culture alike.

If this year shows anything, it’s this - Corteiz really does rule the world.

30. Chet Lo

Having only graduated from his knitwear course at Central Saint Martins in 2020, the way Chet Lo has established himself as a designer to watch is fairly astounding. His signature spikes have been worn by a plethora of famous faces, including Dua Lipa, Kendall Jenner, Doja Cat and SZA. He has been profiled by British Vogue, Dazed, WWD and even secured a place on Forbes’ 30 under 30 list. In May, Lo, alongside drag queen Tayce, was named as one of the creatives taking part in Absolut’s #BornToMix campaign.

Designing a garment featured in the collection ‘Second Skin Couture’, Lo and Tayce showcased their ability to transcend conformities and produce a garment that showcased the joy of genderless fashion. The two collections he dropped this year, an AW22 collection entitled ‘The Tundra’ and a SS23 collection entitled ‘Bai Sun’, were both met with critical acclaim, as Lo showcased his ability to elevate his brand as well as retain the recognisability of his designs.

With ‘Bai Sun’ being his first time on the London Fashion Week schedule, Lo proved his capabilities to put on a show worth seeing, ensuring each garment was carefully paired with synergic hair and makeup to present complete and striking looks. Lo’s designs are also having an impact on how knitwear is viewed in the industry overall, as his figure-hugging garments showcase how knitwear can be sexy and dynamic. Overall, Lo is a shining example of how talent and hard work can get you noticed and we are excited to see how he takes it to the next level this coming year.

31. Casablanca

32. Patrycja Pagas

If Vogue names you as one of 17 emerging designers to watch, you know you’re doing something right and that’s certainly the case for Patrycja Patas.

The Warsaw born but London based designer’s structured and sculpted approach to clothing has created some of the best looks that have shone across the industry this year. Leather looks worthy of being in wardrobe of The Matrix’s Trinity, alongside jewelry which emulates art pieces more than simple accessories have placed Patas’ style right in the middle of the futuristic, Y2K zeitgeist whilst still maintaining a feel of elegance.

Her designs have certainly caught the attention of the it girls, with Normani, Doechii and Jourdan all sporting Patrycja Patas across red carpets and events this year. With a Vogue article mention, and the It Girl stamp of approval, 2022 has brought Patas to a higher level, one we’re sure she’ll be exceeding in the year to come.

33. Stussy

Started off by selling surfboards and t-shirts in Laguna Beach back in the early ‘80s, Shawn Stussy grew a small local brand in what later became one of the most recognisable logos of all time – almost, not even intentionally. As their apparel increased in popularity, Stüssy became the mere symbol of subcultures of surfers, skaters, artists and DJs on an international scale.

To celebrate the brand on a global level and create a sense of community, Shawn Stussy also started the International Stüssy Tribe (which included members such as Keith Haring and Hiroshi Fujiwara, all of them gifted with an exclusive varsity jacket), Classic staples of the brand include knits, spell-out jeans, the iconic 8-ball fleece and stones tee. Although Shawn Stussy’s original idea was to be “anti-luxury” (remember the N. 4 Pigment Dye Tee?), after his resignation in 1996 the brand collaborated with several high-end brands such as Comme des Garçons, Supreme and Dior creating collections that sold out fast.

As Sinatra became the only CEO and the original Stüssy vision changed over time, the brand has experienced ups and downs, having to constantly reinvent itself to adapt to the ever-changing fashion environment.

34. Bottega Veneta

Founded in 1966 in Vicenza (Italy), the brand became famous thanks to its “intrecciato” – its unique leather weaving technique – since its early beginnings. Although celebrated for its quality, discreet elegance and craftsmanship, the brand declined over time, but was later reinvented through the acquisition by the Kering Group in 2001 and Maier’s creative direction, leading Bottega Veneta to triple its revenues and become Kering's second-largest source of income. The rise of Bottega then continued with Creative Director Daniel Lee. Keeping the focus on craftsmanship, the absence of a logo and simplicity-driven products, Lee gave a new impetus and rejuvenated the brand by elevating the intrecciato into trending designs such as the Pouch clutch bag.

As Matthieu Blazy was appointed as the brand’s new Creative Director, the new face of Bottega made his debut at the Autumn/Winter 2022 Milan Fashion Week and exceeded expectations. Blazy did a perfect job in giving Lee’s “New Bottega” a unique interpretation by understanding its heritage while making it trendy. The new Creative Director surprised the audience with a trump l’oeil effect in the first look of the show, where seemingly simple low- rise blue jeans and a white vest top were, in fact, made of leather – the Bottega Veneta staple.

The new Creative Director brought back the faux denim – in this case, also in shorts – in the Spring/Summer 2023 show, alongside dramatic fur coats, quality tailoring, funnel necks and double collars. All set in a site-specific installation curated by designer Gaetano Pesce, featuring resin floors and 400 unique chairs (each recently on sale for $10,000).

35. Kenneth Ize

36. Thebe Magugu

37. Tokyo James

Tokyo James is a menswear brand that debuted in 2015. Recently named an LVMH Prize 2022 finalist, founder Iniye Tokyo James is regarded as a designer at the forefront of a new generation of talent coming from Africa. This year alone, his designs have been worn by several influential celebrities such as Wizkid, Rae Sremmurd and Vic Mensa.

Iniye's unconventional approach to design illustrates his brand's emphasis on cultural exchange. Combining traditional Savile Row tailoring with elements such as textiles inspired by his Nigerian roots – Tokyo James successfully reinforces and subverts tradition – all at the same time.

Tokyo James' Spring 2023 collection takes a darker, more raw turn – with biker jackets, leather, denim and other black garments scattering the Milan Fashion Week runway this year. The label also released a jewellery collaboration with London-based jewellery brand UWR.

Tokyo James may be a luxury label, but the brand continues to focus on community building first. Deciding against the arguably more efficient option of production in the UK, Iniye maintains his Lagos studio where he is continually surrounded by budding Nigerian creatives.

38. Clints Inc

39. Botter Paris

40. EgonLab

41. Lukhanyo Mdingi

2022 was bound to be a good year for Lukhanyo Mdinigi - coming off his joint 2021 LVMH Karl Lagerfeld Prize win, Mdinigi’s made-in-Africa luxury has continued to catch attention within the industry and elevate levels.

The South African designer launched his eponymous brand in 2015, and has reached new heights every year since. This year, he brought his rich and personal ‘Burkina’ SS/23 collection to Paris for viewings, showcasing amongst other highly regarded designers.

All this has shown his potential to the global industry, which has taken note as shown through his selection as one of the finalists for the Andam Fashion Awards 2022.

Like others on this list, Mdinigi’s passion for fashion reaches further than the runway and into real world politics. For two years, the designer has been involved with the Ethical Fashion Initiative, a UN fashion programme; through this, Mdinigi and others connect with textile communities across Africa, Central Asia and Haiti with a focus on work between marginalized communities and contemporary African designers.

A part of the exciting new generation of African fashion designers which have recently been emerging, Mdinigi’s mix of artisanal craft with modernity as well as insistence on using African themes, textiles and methods to create collections which defy the normative fashion rules of menswear, he ensured that he was on the lips of all who were looking this year.

42. Abaga Velli

43 Stefan Cooke

44 Issey Miyake

In 2022, the fashion world grieved the loss of Japanese designer Issey Miyake, who sadly passed away in August 2022. The Japanese visionary left behind a strong legacy – one that included art, fashion, accessories and fragrances driven by technology. Notorious for his unique and innovative approach to design, Miyake was concerned less with creating fashion and more with creating ‘design for living’.

From Steve Jobs to Grace Jones, Jean-Michel Basquiat and Robin Williams, Issey Miyake’s dynamic designs have adorned the bodies of legends for several decades. In 2022, this is no different – popular figures such as Stormzy, Travis Scott, Annita and Cassie have all recently repped garments from Miyake’s namesake brand.

Issey Mikaye’s Spring 2023 Ready-To-Wear collection debuted at Paris Fashion Week, marking the first collection to release after Miyake’s death. Loosely based around sculpture, the collection was developed by Satoshi Kondo and a close-knit design team – who worked closely with the founder until his passing. Opening with a special tribute to Miyake, the show featured a special quote from the late designer: “I believe there is hope in design. Design evokes surprise and joy in people.”.

Each silhouette showcased at the S23 show was a vivid example of Issey Miyake’s innovation. While some garments from the collection utilised only one piece of fabric, others were created to be worn both forwards and backwards. The jackets from the collection were created to be water-resistant, whilst the RESONANT SUIT PB is made from 100 percent plant-based polyester fibre.

45. Peter Do

New York-based brand Peter Do has become known for its sleek spin on menswear and minimalistic fashion. The Phoebe Philo trained designer has gone from strength to strength since the launch of his eponymous brand in 2018 – becoming a go-to for clean tailoring, thoughtful design and statement garments.

After a sentimental runway debut in 2021, Do’s FW22 show insinuated the next steps for the brand – establishment. The collection, titled Foundation, contrasts the reminiscent feel of the 2021 show by looking more to the future of fashion. Foundation represents the true beginning of the label and illustrates the intentionality behind everything they release.

Peter Do’s SS23 collection, which debuted at New York Fashion Week in September, dually introduced the brand’s collaboration with SM Entertainment – Korea’s largest entertainment company. NCT member JENO opened the iconic show, making him the first K-pop artist to open a NYFW show.

Do also collaborated with bio-based material developer TômTex to create two looks from the show. The two ensembles, both of which consist of glossy leather-like black and camel tank tops and wide-leg trousers, were developed with the use of TômTex’s 'novel non-woven biofabric' – a biodegradable material created using shrimp and mushroom food waste.

46. Louisa Ballou

Charleston US-born designer Louisa Ballou has an abundance of endless love for her beautiful prints, creating striking feminine designs with conviction for the confident woman. The brand provides luxury swimwear by offering a selection that radiates numerous brim of colours and prints in a modern way. Taking inspiration from her coastal background, she expresses her influences for subculture of surfing throughout her collections which leads her to creating the ultimate perfect swimwear for the summertime ahead for those holiday gallivanters.

Since the eponymous beach and swimwear brand started in 2019, the brand has developed and blossomed. It has grabbed tremendous attention amongst celebrities such as Bella Hadid and R’n’B singer SZA as they take their looks to the centre stage of Instagram, presenting colourful, vibrant swimming costumes with cut-out detailing. It has been an incredible outcome for the brand by taking things to the next level in this luxurious swimwear, ready to take these style looks to the beach.

Presenting quality and fit, Ballou's A/W 22 line displays elevated range of swimwear staples brings to life the perfect balance between sultry and seduction looks mixed with vibrant colours and one-of-a-kind graphic prints.

Eye-catching statement pieces is Ballou’s inspiration that keeps the brand going. Nylon one-piece swimsuits and bikinis paired with revealing cut-out detailing, asymmetric construction, and hardware embellishments combined with mesh bodycon dresses accentuating the female form and bringing a fresh offering to contemporary silhouettes of beachwear-inspired pieces amongst her past, present and future collections.

Louisa Ballou’s swimwear is the ultimate style investment.

47. Ottolinger

48. Aeliza

49. Zilver

Debuted in 2018, the Ready-To-Wear fashion and lifestyle brand ZILVER was founded by Pedro Lourenço. Based in London, the label is defined as "future-proof", challenging notions of conscious fashion and breaking the stigma of "sustainability being unsexy". Olly Alexander, Jnr Choi and Jennifer Lopez are just a few names that have donned the label's innovative garments in the past year.

In 2022, ZILVER hit a milestone with the launch of their London Flagship store. Located in Soho, the launch followed the success of the brand's London pop-up store – and was accompanied by the release of ZILVER's SS22 collection, VIRGO 1. The collection closely aligns with the galactic, futuristic feel of the label's flagship store.

"We live in such a digital world and everything is focused on shopping online" notes ZILVER's founder and creative director. "There's something grounding about being able to experience and try on clothes in a physical space".

50. Selasi