MM6 Maison Margiela takes over Pitti Uomo

On Wednesday evening, there was jazz in the air in the beautiful city of Florence. At the picturesque Giardino dell'Orticoltura, MM6 Maison Margiela showcased their FW25 menswear collection to the Pitti Uomo crowds. Nineteen years after Martin Margiela took over the coveted guest designer spot and painted Florence white, the offshoot of the Belgian masters eponymous label returned to add another glowing chapter to his already unparalleled legacy.

Through the pieces one can see the homage to the iconic Miles Davis, the outfits put together resemble what the legendary musician would have worn in today’s times. Polka dot patterns and exaggerated sleeves mixed with lavish linen and lurex. Between the mesh of black, burgundy and shades of brown was the unmistakable glimmering blue tuxedo suit.

Throughout was a display of the House’s codes of technique oriented mastery over fabric interspersed with seamless tailoring. There were malleable or plastified knits alongside rubberized and taped textures. Denim was airbrushed with the perspective of the fabric being under a spotlight. Though crafted with the same materials, the design team explored different techniques to show variance between personas by reimagining masculine archetypes with feminine attributes.

The direct references were to Miles Davis’ love of giant colourful dots, metallic blazers, frayed vests and leather pants. Another reference provided was Leopold von Sacher-Masoch’s novella Venus in Fur which is interestingly also set in Florence.

The design team’s spokesperson discussed that the backdrop was a subliminal sensuous city whilst the collection was an ode to a man who was both the subject and the object of desire, a masculine energy that was confident and cool, laden with indifference and individuality. MM6 Maison Margiela crafted an event to celebrate the hardcore yet classy collection which when juxtaposed with Martin’s 2006 offering at Pitti Uomo brought out the yin to his erstwhile yang, the darkness and complexity of clothing to the lightness and frolicking of his all white collection.