MAFCSM LFW AW24: Finlay Vincent

Everything about Finlay Vincent’s outlook on the fashion world is incongruous and unique. Why make an entire collection when you can make one piece to be worn over 200 different ways? Why look to other designers when Lego gives you all the inspiration you need? Why create more when you can create better?

In line with his brick-based inspirations, for Vincent, the joy of fashion lies in the process, in altering items and finding new ways to "play" with your designs.

Vincent challenges industry norms of what constitutes "enough", questioning the constant need for output. He promotes a less-is-more approach, advocating for reduction and refinement in a world focused on mass production. By sparking a movement towards mindful design, Vincent encourages a shift towards quality over quantity, fostering appreciation for craftsmanship and creativity.

Vincent's fearless demeanour is fuelled by his unwavering passion for creation and his relentless pursuit of integrity. With every endeavour, he strives to carve out a space where his creativity isn’t limited by other’s expectations. Whether challenging established norms or pushing the boundaries of innovation, Vincent's drive stems from a deep-seated commitment to his principles. His determination to work in his own way and create at his own pace.

NW: To start could you tell us a bit about yourself, your background and how you found your way into the fashion world?

I’m Finlay, my family is from the West Midlands, a town called Dudley, but I grew up in Kenya. On the weekend I would visit second-hand market where I’d spend a lot of time sorting through clothing details. 

NW: Is there any particular subject matter that is currently inspiring your work?

There’s an artist called Gregor Schneider whose whole practice is the yearly refinement and evolution of the inside infrastructure of his house. And then Lego also!

NW: The fashion world is notoriously hard to break into, what would you say the most significant challenges you’ve had to overcome to reach the stage you’re at now/What do you find most challenging about working in the fashion world?

Being told refining 1 jacket is not enough. Why is anyone allowed to decide what enough is? How is enough constituted? A larger body of work? Quality? And then who defined quality? Maybe there’s too much focus on the physical output instead of the practice.I’d also say there is a constant need for the work you create to be backed up by your identity. You have to explain yourself in the work. I don’t think that’s necessary. The work can just be.

NW: On the other side of things, what would you say is the most exciting thing you have been able to do/accomplish in your career so far? 

Just the refinement of the Jacket. The moments of feeling in love with it or design breakthroughs. 

A friend was playing with the components and made a discovery of a new way a pocket can be added on and was in awe. We grow up and suddenly lose that child-like play.

NW: Your work is so unique, I wondered if you could touch on what you feel sets your work apart from other brands?

I appreciate that. With the work, you put together/customise the clothing yourself, it’s not about being dictated to. It’s also for anyone! I don’t hold back much, that freedom comes with having nothing to lose. Brands don’t have the freedom of being able to make just 1 great product.

NW: We really loved the collection and the work you did for Dr Martens, could you touch on the story behind this body of work? 

The outcome is a single well-made jacket. 11 components made in Ventile that turns into 200+ ways of wearing. An exercise in reduction.

For the Dr. Martens collaboration using the same philosophy I took their iconic DNA of the 1460 boot and deconstructed it so it can be further worn in multiple ways.I think the Dr. Martens collaboration felt like validation. A company who aligns themselves on rebellious durability get where I’m going.

NW: What does success mean to you?

Not giving in.

Success to me is the freedom to create whatever you want or don’t want and not having to compromise on integrity. Success is standing on the outside looking in!

NW: I know it’s probably hard to narrow it down to just one, but if there was one thing you would like to see change in the fashion industry what would it be?

It’s become very easy for designers to give into all temptation and make more. When actually we should constantly be asking ourselves how can I make less. Less but better.

NW: To finish the interview, is there anything exciting coming in the future you could let us know about? And what are your plans for the near future?

I’m really scared. The goal is to find a way financially to not have to work anywhere and keep making improvements on the jacket. But if the jacket isn’t being sold in mass, how do I live? I’d love to work alongside a brand that aligns with my values and could help me fund a project together.