LFW SS25: Karoline Vitto

A storm may have been brewing at 180 Strand, but Karoline Vitto’s SS25 collection, Undertide, turned the tempest into a metaphor for female resilience and power. Set against the dramatic backdrop of Copacabana Beach, with waves crashing and flashes of lightning illuminating the scene, Vitto’s latest offering felt like a natural continuation of her exploration of the female form. Her women—no longer mere mortals—stood as goddesses, undeterred by the elements, embodying strength and sensuality.

This season marks a pivotal moment for Vitto, her first completely solo show after two seasons with Fashion East and a Milan showing backed by Dolce & Gabbana. The progression was evident: the designer’s already signature draped dresses and bodysuits felt more refined, yet retained their empowering edge. These pieces revealed and concealed in equal measure, with slinky, crisscrossing straps offering both support and style, particularly for women with larger busts—a nod to inclusivity that has become a cornerstone of Vitto’s ethos. The collection’s palette ranged from her reliable neutrals—black, white, brown, and nude—to scarlet red and a newly introduced stormy blue, echoing the tempestuous mood of the show.

One of the most notable evolutions in Vitto’s designs this season was the reimagining of her signature curved metal accents. For the first time, Vitto collaborated with Brazilian jewellery designer Carlos Penna, whose sleek, flexible metalwork shaped and supported the garments. These sculptural closures were not only aesthetic but practical, being water-resistant and adjustable, which aligns perfectly with Vitto’s vision of creating pieces that mould to a variety of body types. This emphasis on versatility carried through to her collaboration with Tabitha Ringwood, whose bespoke footwear designs—specifically, the Metal Drape Boot with its adjustable cutout feature—perfectly complemented the collection’s fluid yet structured feel.

Sustainability, long a concern for Vitto, took centre stage once more, particularly through her use of PYRATEX® seacell fabrics. This powdery pink jersey, created from seaweed harvested from Icelandic fjords, added an innovative touch, boasting not only aesthetic appeal but also skincare benefits, in a rare fusion of luxury and environmental responsibility. The fabric’s softness and cooling properties seemed almost symbolic of the calm beneath the storm, a reminder that even in the fiercest conditions, there can be serenity.

Overall, Undertide was a triumph. Vitto’s SS25 collection struck a delicate balance between practicality and artistry, offering a clear message of strength and sensuality while staying true to her commitment to craftsmanship and sustainability. With each carefully constructed piece, she underscored her belief that luxury should not only empower but also nurture. Her women, rising from the tumult of sea and sky, stood as a testament to endurance—both theirs and hers.