Henry Tuppen

LFW SS25: Dreaming Eli

Image: Sarah Schindler (@thecouleurofstyle)

For Spring/Summer 2025, Dreaming Eli returns to the mythic shores of Sicily, weaving an intricate tale inspired by the ancient Greek legend of Scylla and Charybdis. These mythological sea creatures, once feared for their monstrous power, now serve as symbols for the brand’s exploration of femininity, fertility, and the reclamation of narrative. Scylla, traditionally portrayed as a multi-headed beast lurking in the depths of the Strait of Messina, is the focal point for Dreaming Eli’s reimagination—transformed from a symbol of male fear into an embodiment of female empowerment.

In this season’s collection, Dreaming Eli challenges the long-standing Western tradition of associating the fertile female body with monstrosity. Scylla, often depicted as both repulsive and beautiful, becomes a metaphor for the dualities inherent in femininity—softness and strength, humanity and wildness. By reinterpreting Scylla's complex identity, the collection aims to restore the power of femininity, where sexuality and fertility are no longer sources of fear, but symbols of agency and transformation.

The sea, in all its ethereal beauty, becomes a key source of inspiration for the fabrics and textures seen in the SS25 collection. Powder blue, cream, and champagne hues blend into each other, echoing the iridescent interior of an oyster shell. Rich beading and freshwater pearls encrust garments like natural shells growing upon rocks, while distressed gauze and soft Chantilly lace mimic the organic movement of sea moss and waves. Corsets, embossed with delicate sea-inspired textures, climb up the body, and mermaid-like trousers flow down the models’ legs in oceanic motion.

Dreaming Eli’s signature corsetry takes centre stage, as vintage elements like crinolines, fan laces, and suspenders provide structure to these organic silhouettes. The deconstructed triple corset—an iconic Dreaming Eli design—returns with intricate new variations, pushing the boundaries of craftsmanship. Hand-draped and layered, each piece is unique, emphasizing the brand’s dedication to handmade production and sustainable fashion practices, particularly in its continued exploration of up-cycled denim, this time delicately paired with lace.

The collection also introduces Dreaming Eli’s second-ever shoe design, the Ballerina Platform. As dramatic as its predecessor, the Wild Hearts Platform, this chunky ballerina shoe blends elegance with edge. With a bold square toe, ribbon fastenings, and a powerful platform, the Ballerina Platform is designed for everyday wear, available in ivory, pale pink, mocha, and black.

Further enriching this season’s offering is a creative collaboration with artist Sophie Tea. Together, Dreaming Eli and Tea will produced a live painted dress at the SS25 presentation, with the final artwork to be auctioned later this autumn—a true merging of fashion and art.

The presentation matched the quality of the collection flawlessly. The ethereal flow of the draped fabrics combined with the hauntingly powerful soundtrack brought the collection's message to life with stunning impact.

Dreaming Eli’s SS25 collection not only captivates with its aesthetic beauty but also resonates deeply with its themes of identity and reclamation. The myth of Scylla, once a symbol of male fear, is reinterpreted as a story of strength, complexity, and the ultimate reclaiming of the feminine narrative. Dreaming Eli invites us to dive beneath the surface of these ancient myths and embrace the fluid, powerful nature of womanhood.