LFW SS25: BUERLANGMA

Image: Elizabeth Lenthall (@elizabethlenthall)

BUERLANGMA, the Beijing-based fashion house co-founded by visionary designers Qiqi Yuan and Crystal Wang, captivated audiences at London Fashion Week with its much-anticipated SS25 Capsule 5 collection. Since its establishment in 2020, BUERLANGMA has rapidly risen in the fashion world, amassing over 200 celebrity collaborations and earning the prestigious Merit Award Prize. Known for its bold, visually striking designs, the brand has garnered widespread admiration from media figures and fashion icons, solidifying its reputation for individuality, cultural richness, and cutting-edge creativity.

At the core of BUERLANGMA lies a design philosophy that champions bravery, freedom, and self-expression. The brand’s name, rooted in symbolism—"BUER" representing uniqueness and "LANGMA," a nod to Mount Everest, symbolizing the peak of achievement—reflects the house’s mission to push the limits of fashion while redefining success in the industry.

Image: Elizabeth Lenthall (@elizabethlenthall)

For Spring/Summer 2025, BUERLANGMA’s Capsule 5 delved into the intricate relationship between nature, human culture, and history. The collection unfolded across five interconnected themes—Desire, Power, Degenerate Peace, and Vold—each offering a nuanced social commentary through different temporal perspectives. Rococo-inspired designs critiqued the historical ties between fashion and nobility, while modern pieces explored contemporary societal structures, fusing historical grandeur with innovative forward-thinking aesthetics.

A highlight of the collection was the incorporation of masks inspired by traditional Manchu ethnic clothing, underscoring BUERLANGMA’s deep connection to cultural heritage. These masks seamlessly integrated with the avant-garde designs, furthering the brand's ethos of blending tradition with modernity. Nostalgic details such as clothing techniques echoing Chinese origami paid homage to cultural craftsmanship, adding layers of meaning to the collection’s bold visual statements.

Image: Elizabeth Lenthall (@elizabethlenthall)

This season marked a significant expansion of BUERLANGMA’s collaborative spirit, as three additional designers and artists from diverse fields contributed to the collection. Their fresh perspectives enriched the designs, elevating the collection and reinforcing the brand’s commitment to innovation and artistic synergy.

The runway presentation was equally as impactful as the collection itself. To celebrate the 40th anniversary of London Fashion Week, BUERLANGMA staged a powerful transformation: models initially walked the runway in oversized black coats, which were then dramatically removed to reveal intricate dresses beneath. This symbolic gesture illustrated the evolution of fashion over the decades and highlighted the brand’s position as a pioneer in the fashion world.

Qiqi Yuan's reflection on the democratization of fashion resonated through the collection. Fashion, once dictated by elites, is now a living, dynamic story that belongs to everyone. With its SS25 Capsule 5, BUERLANGMA redefined the peaks of creativity and ambition, proving that fashion, much like the brand itself, is ever-evolving, daring, and full of life.