LFW AW25: YAKU

Image: Jordan Core (@jordancore4)

The main thing that stood out to me, as I entered 180 Strand today, was the unbelievable amount of work, love and care that had clearly been painstakingly poured into this collection. It feels like yesterday I was in the same space to view and review another collection from YAKU - a collection that didn’t just draw you into its world, but brought it to life before your eyes. In just a few months, Yaku and his team were able to craft something just as immersive, just as powerful and just as appealing as they had last season. 

Every designer that shows at London Fashion Week provides wonderful, varied and enthralling events for their audiences, but Yaku’s ability to envelop his guests into his rich world of afrofuturism never ceases to amaze me. In an era when fashion often flirts with the overly commercial and superficial, The ImPossible Family Reunion in RPG Space stands as a glowing beacon, lighting the way to an industry overflowing with depth and narrative ambition. 

Image: Jordan Core (@jordancore4)

The clothes were glorious, as ever, but the way Yaku invites audiences into a meticulously crafted universe of hope, resilience and familial storytelling is what truly stands out.

The collection unfolds as the fifth chapter in an ongoing saga, chronicling a family's odyssey through fantastical realms. Previously, we witnessed their struggle to reconcile painful histories with aspirational futures, honing their skills in anticipation of confronting their past's tangible spectres. Now, with AW25, we stand at the precipice of their next adventure: the eve before they venture into uncharted territories.

Image: Jordan Core (@jordancore4)

Each family member is reimagined as a distinct archetype, their roles and attire deeply influenced by their real-life counterparts. The matriarch morphs seamlessly between forms, embodying adaptability and strength. The eldest sister stands as the vigilant Protector, her garments reflecting a blend of guardianship and anxiety. Her partner, the Provider, dons attire suited for the hunt, symbolising sustenance and tradition. These personas are more than just artistic abstractions; they are woven into the very fabric of the collection, influencing textiles, patterns, and dyeing techniques.

The world-building here extends beyond the runway. Audiences are invited to explore the family's island—a fully realised 3D environment accessible through augmented reality and on-stage animations. Grandad's Workshop offered an intimate glimpse into the creative process, showcasing character profiles, diaries, and development sketches. Visitors could immerse themselves further by obtaining a Yaku passport, engaging in self-reflective inquiries to determine their biome, and receiving personalised badges that signify their place within this intricate world. It was also just bloody good fun. 

Image: Jordan Core (@jordancore4)

Collaborating once again with theatre director Dermot Daly, the presentation, titled "Sunset on Tutorial Island," encapsulated a full day's journey, from the quiet promise of dawn to the contemplative hush of night. It captures the family's final moments of preparation, teetering between confidence and trepidation, mirroring the universal human experience of facing the unknown.

This collection challenged the conventional boundaries of fashion, positioning itself as a medium for storytelling, introspection, and connection. It serves as a poignant reminder of the power that clothing can have over our lives; a vessel for rich narratives that resonate on a deeply human level.

Image: Jordan Core (@jordancore4)