LFW AW25: Harris Reed

Harris Reed has never been one to whisper. For AW25, the designer leant further into his signature maximalism, crafting a collection that burst down the runway, a true declaration of presence. Reed channelled the raw, unapologetic energy of punk—reinterpreted through his lens of sculptural romanticism. The result is a lineup that brims with armour-like silhouettes, theatrical proportions, and gilded embellishments, each look built to take up space and command attention.

The show took place within the grand Duveen Galleries, where an oversized Urchin chandelier by luxury lighting brand Porta Romana loomed overhead. This ominous presence proved to be an omen of what was to come. Reed, ever fascinated by the interplay of interior design and fashion, borrowed directly from the organic, spiked structure of the chandelier, integrating its aesthetic into garments brimming with opulence and aggression. Porta Romana’s artisans worked closely with Reed to create flexible resin fronds, hand-painted in electric blue and etched gold, that protrude from corsetry and outerwear like avant-garde exoskeletons.

Reed’s take on armour is at once protective and performative. Corsets, already a house staple, are transformed into breastplates, extending outward with surreal, jagged waves. Crinolines, typically concealed beneath layers of fabric, become standalone structures—cages that both shield and expose, reinforcing the tension between vulnerability and power. Where traditional tailoring might seek to refine the body, Reed exaggerates it, creating silhouettes that feel almost mythological in their proportions.

But amid the aggression, there were elements of raw intimacy. Layers of hand-painted contouring and gold leaf detailing, highlighting the body rather than obscuring it. Sheer chiffon and tulle temper the weight of the tailoring wool, creating a wonderful balance between softness and structure. Archival embroidery samples—some applied in delicate, fragmented glimpses, others stitched into bold, graphic lines—add another layer of contradiction. It’s Reed at his most theatrical.

At a time when the world feels increasingly chaotic, Reed offers clothing that is both armour and art, defiance and vulnerability, protection and escapism, all wrapped into a single form. Made entirely in the UK—from the London ateliers of Harris Reed and Roker to the Surrey studio of Porta Romana—the collection is a testament to craftsmanship and collaboration. With each structured silhouette and gilded spike, Reed makes his stance clear: now is not the time to shrink. Now is the time to be seen.