LFW AW24: Saul Nash

In a pulsating homage to the electric energy and timeless rituals of London's iconic garage clubs, Saul Nash emerges as a visionary conductor of movement and style with his AW24 collection, aptly titled DRESS CODES.

Drawing inspiration from the strict yet often liberating entrance policies of these underground havens—where "no hoods/no hats/no trainers" is the mantra—Nash embarks on a sartorial journey that transcends the boundaries of traditional sportswear, infusing it with the heartbeat of London nightlife.

As the models take to the runway, the audience is transported into the heart of a bustling club scene, where music vibrates and anticipation crackles. MC Bushkin from Heartless Crew, a stalwart of the UK Garage movement, strides confidently down the catwalk, embodying the spirit of the era. Accompanying him is acclaimed photographer Ewen Spencer, whose lens immortalized the raw energy and camaraderie of those legendary nights.

At the helm of the show is the incomparable Jourdan Dunn, a symbol of London's multifaceted beauty and resilience, closing the spectacle with grace and poise. The soundtrack, a masterful blend curated by CKTRL and featuring Envy on the Mic, reverberates through the venue, punctuated by the iconic track "Double-up" by RJ East, Saul's own brother and a guiding light into the world of garage nights.

Reflecting on his roots, Saul Nash shares his childhood memories of witnessing the garage scene through the eyes of his older brother—an experience that laid the foundation for his unique perspective on clothing and movement. "How do you take sportswear and dress it up to get in?" he muses, encapsulating the essence of DRESS CODES.

The collection unfolds like a chorus of movement and texture, each piece meticulously crafted to blur the lines between functionality and fashion. A black padded primaloft jacket, quilted with Nash's signature movement lines, cleverly conceals a hood that folds down to mimic a collar, a subtle nod to the art of subversion often necessary to enter these venues.

Soft structure knit jackets, crafted from luxurious Merino and regenerated viscose, hug the body with precision, while mesh utility jackets crafted from Seaqual fabric boast Nash's trademark keyhole cut-outs, sculpting and contouring with every step. Technical innovations abound, from recycled nylon zip-ups with strap-cut detailing to compression knits woven with black-and-white images of dancing bodies, evoking the vibrant spirit of the dance floor.

In a ground-breaking collaboration with Smiley, Nash introduces a playful yet sophisticated twist, with the iconic smiley face emblazoned across zip-up shell jackets, its outline forming only when the arms are held against the body—an ingenious fusion of fashion and function.

But perhaps the most exciting debut of all is Nash's foray into accessories, with a range of sleek bags crafted in collaboration with ARCS. Mesh crossbody bags and holster bags, fastened with magnets, exude urban sophistication, while Sebago loafers, both classic and customized with Vibram soles, offer a nod to timeless style with a modern twist.

With DRESS CODES, Nash not only invites us to revel in the nostalgia of London's storied nightlife but also challenges us to redefine the boundaries of style and self-expression. In his hands, sportswear becomes a canvas for creativity, a conduit for movement, and a celebration of the indomitable spirit of a city that never sleeps.