LFW AW24: Masha Popova

Masha Popova's autumn/winter 2024 collection, GLI$TEN, takes fashion enthusiasts on a nostalgic journey through the defining moments of the 2010s, a period that shaped her formative teenage years. While her previous collections were rooted in the early Noughties, GLI$TEN brings to life the chaotic styling of the era through Popova's subversive lens. Animal prints, maximalist jewelry, and jeggings take center stage, but with a twist – everything is not quite as it seems.

Far from being a literal homage to the "It-girls" of the past, Popova's collection embodies a mood of "façade versus reality," drawing inspiration from paparazzi images and cult series like Skins and The Bling Ring. This theme resonates with Popova on a personal level as she navigates the challenges of being an emerging designer in an industry filled with glamour and illusion.

Experimental fabrications remain a focal point for Popova's label, with jerseys treated in the same manner as her trademark washed-out denim, provided by ongoing innovation partner ISKO Denim. Leopard spots and matted faux-fur textures take on new forms as silk devore, while gold dust sprinkled throughout adds a touch of almost-cliché glamour.

The collection features oversized plastic beads, reminiscent of Y2K celebrities, scaled up as swirling prints on sweatshirts and tees. Slouchy silhouettes inspired by draped scarves and hoodie-tracksuits dominate the offering, with neon ZHILYOVA lingerie peeking beneath some pieces. Slimline jeggings take on unexpected twists with spliced cut-outs and bold prints.

Following her combined autumn/winter 2023 and spring/summer 2024 collection dedicated to monster trucks, Popova now explores a different kind of fast-lane with GLI$TEN. This collection lifts the veil of nostalgia to reveal a raw and edgy take on fashion, capturing the essence of a tumultuous yet unforgettable era. Through GLI$TEN, Masha Popova continues to push the boundaries of design, offering fashion enthusiasts a fresh perspective on the past while paving the way for the future of style.

Images by Molly Peachy-Pape