LFW AW24: LABRUM

Photography: Sarah Schindler

Over the weekend LABRUM London unveiled its highly anticipated AW24 collection, a breath-taking tribute to the rich tapestry of cultures brought to the UK by immigrants from around the world. Under the creative direction of Foday Dumbuya, the collection pays homage to the resilience and creativity of immigrant artists who have left an indelible mark on the art and fashion world.

At the heart of AW24 lies a celebration of diverse dressing styles and techniques, with a particular focus on wrapping and draping fabrics around the body. These techniques not only showcase practicality and resilience but also honour the historical significance of adornment as an art form.

A standout piece in the collection is the Naimbana patchwork blazer, a symbol of harmonious cultural fusion. Crafted from off-cuts sourced from the LABRUM London studio, the blazer features an improv patchwork design adorned with hand-free motion quilting of cowrie shells, highlighting the rich heritage that shapes LABRUM's ethos.

The collection boasts an array of global textile techniques, including digital embroidery, patchwork, quilting, woven textiles, and screen-printing, each contributing to the vibrant colour palette of AW24. Described as a 'Cultural Confluence,' the silhouettes embrace a diverse range of cuts, shapes, and styles, reflecting the cross-pollination of cultural identities in the modern world.

Photography: Sarah Schindler

Accessories play a pivotal role in the collection, serving as a tribute to the journeys undertaken by courageous individuals worldwide. Vintage suitcases wrapped in LABRUM's monogram fabrics evoke a sense of nostalgia and regal quality, while kufi-style crowns and patchwork buckets fuse global style influences with contemporary design.

A showstopping finale piece, titled 'FLAGS,' pays homage to key migrations throughout history. Draped in flags representing countries involved in significant migrations, the garment translates the title of the show, ‘Journey of Colours’, into a physical form and serves as a poignant reminder of the interconnectedness of cultures.

With a seamless blend of traditional craftsmanship and contemporary design elements, LABRUM London invited viewers to embark on a journey of discovery. Through their AW24 collection, Foday Dumbuya reimagined African design as a contemporary language, showcasing the beauty that emerges from the harmonious fusion of heritage and modernity.