Nigo has finally blessed the fashion world with his work under the Maison of KENZO, and it proved to be an exciting and forward-thinking start as the artistic director.
The collection serves as Nigo’s official introduction to his vision for the fashion house: the clear mesh of cultures. It is a collaboration between Japanese aesthetics and Western styles that transcends conventional dress codes. Hidden in his direction is a new and modern take on the archives of KENZO, blended with the life experiences of Nigo to deliver a collection that will be notable for years to come.
There is an evident mesh of cultures littered across the collection. The US-styled military jacket and graduation jackets are reimagined to incorporate Japanese-inspired styles such as the reversible kimono as well as take Kenzo Takada's original sketches into account.
Playing into the subcultures that dominated Japan in the 1980s, the use of checks and pinstripes echo the British influences of the period. Tweed coats and checked biker jackets give the old-fashioned patterns a new life in the modern age.
The personification of the ‘impractical worker’ is seen across the collection. Casquettes, field caps, and worker boots are all reimagined to match the brand's high fashion look with detailed embellishments and patterning.
The playful, young, and youthful vibe is acknowledged across the collection. Chunky American college jumpers embroidered with varsity patches, flower motifs, and the Poppy print give the collection a light-hearted touch. Paired with the sensibility of the cardigans, vests, and dresses, the collection creates a duality of the modern woman.
The bright prints and colours also contribute to the youthful vibe found across the collection. The most notable pieces, however, are those with double denim. Or in this case, a whole outfit featuring denim. Nigo’s ensembles are beautifully put together highlighting the interconnectivity between the pieces, in such a way that it seems impossible to wear them apart. With this as a taster into the future works produced under KENZO, Nigo’s vision is promising and needed.
Words by Cora-Jane Jordon.
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