MFW SS25: Ferragamo, Heritage Reimagined

The ballerina floats effortlessly, embodying elegance, grace, and timeless allure. She’s a storyteller, weaving together movement and emotion with every step. In Ferragamo’s latest teaser for the Spring/Summer 2025 show, this ethereal figure enchants in a ballet flat, a shoe steeped in the brand's rich history. Since Salvatore Ferragamo first introduced the iconic ballet flat in 1954, worn by Hollywood icons like Audrey Hepburn, Marilyn Monroe, and Greta Garbo, the shoe has remained a symbol of understated sophistication. Now, it makes a poised return, ready to captivate a new generation.

Maximilian Davis’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection for Ferragamo is a captivating blend of past and present, paying homage to the house’s balletic roots while infusing it with a fresh, modern twist. Davis, who took the helm at Ferragamo in 2022, continues to bring his unique creative vision to the storied Italian fashion house, incorporating his heritage and experiences into the brand’s legacy.

The inspiration for this collection can be traced back to Ferragamo’s extensive archive of shoe designs created by its founder, Salvatore Ferragamo. As Davis explains, “all of them were created for a reason, and all contain a story.” This season, the stories that resonated most with Davis were those connected to dance. On his mood board, Davis featured a 1950 photograph of Salvatore Ferragamo fitting shoes on American dancer and choreographer Katharine Dunham, whose work was deeply influenced by her ethnographic research in the Caribbean. Also featured were images of Rudolf Nureyev, the Russian ballet dancer who reportedly performed in Ferragamo shoes, alongside striking ballet photographs by Hans van Manen.

Davis’ collection channelled these influences through elegant and avant-garde designs. Trench coats with metallic accents, field jackets, and sectioned skirts conveyed a tactile, '80s off-duty ballet vibe, reminiscent of Nureyev’s style. Silk knit dresses with ribbed hems and double-wrapped jackets drew on the classic ballet cardigan, while parachute dresses billowed with movement, obscuring and accentuating the body in equal measure. The craftsmanship Ferragamo is known for was evident in every piece, from the intricate leather Gancini mesh in outerwear to the frayed stonewashed denim that added a subtle Caribbean flair to the collection.

Footwear also took centre stage, with ribboned pointed-toe pumps, jelly moccasins, and geometric booties that echoed the balletic inspiration while embracing modern minimalism. The accessories were equally impactful, with soft leather bags that folded and collapsed gently, adorned with Ferragamo’s signature metal Gancini details.

By drawing from Ferragamo’s history while adding his personal touch, Davis has created a collection that feels both nostalgic and forward-thinking. “Every shoe has its own meaning; every shoe has a story,” he says. With this collection, Davis has woven a new chapter into Ferragamo’s rich narrative, making it relevant for today while maintaining its timeless elegance.