Fashion East Presents SS25 Collections by Olly Shinder, SOS SKYN, LOUTRE, Nuba, and Kitty Shukman

Fashion East, the revered talent incubator that has consistently pushed the boundaries of fashion, has unveiled its much-anticipated line-up for the Spring/Summer 2025 season. This year, the showcase promises to be a dynamic blend of innovation, creativity, and cultural commentary, with a diverse group of designers ready to make their mark on the global stage. The five-designer line-up, comprising both seasoned and emerging talents, is set to redefine the narrative across menswear, womenswear, and footwear at London Fashion Week. The event will take place at The Truman Brewery, a venue synonymous with cutting-edge fashion, on Friday, September 13th, at 6 pm.

This season's roster features returning designers Olly Shinder and SOS SKYN by Samara Scott Studio, alongside newcomers LOUTRE, Nuba, and Kitty Shukman. Each brings a distinct aesthetic and perspective, promising a show that will challenge conventional norms and celebrate diverse identities.

Since its inception in 2000, Fashion East has been a cornerstone of the British fashion industry, serving as a launchpad for some of the most influential designers of the 21st century. Founded by Lulu Kennedy MBE in collaboration with The Truman Brewery, Fashion East was created as a non-profit designer support and showcasing scheme dedicated to nurturing emerging UK-based talent. Over the past two decades, it has become synonymous with innovation, creativity, and the relentless pursuit of excellence in fashion.

Over the years, it has become a crucial incubator for some of the most influential names in fashion, with an impressive alumni list that includes Kim Jones OBE, Craig Green, Simone Rocha, JW Anderson, Martine Rose, Wales Bonner, and Nensi Dojaka, among others. By providing a platform for these designers to debut their work at London Fashion Week, Fashion East has played a pivotal role in shaping the future of the global fashion landscape, continually pushing the boundaries of creativity and innovation.

Olly Shinder

Olly Shinder founded his eponymous brand in 2022, immediately following his graduation from Central Saint Martins' esteemed BA programme. From the beginning, Shinder's work has been a nuanced exploration of hypermasculine dress codes, skillfully subverting these traditional norms through innovative cuts, carefully chosen fabrics, and an unwavering commitment to detail. His designs, rooted in London's vibrant cultural landscape, reflect the city's dynamic intersections between fashion, art institutions, and queer nightlife, with additional inspiration drawn from the utilitarian aesthetics of workwear and military clothing.

The brand quickly garnered attention within the fashion industry, becoming part of Dover Street Market Paris' brand development division, an incubator dedicated to fostering emerging talent. In 2023, Shinder's label achieved another milestone by becoming a Fashion East recipient, presenting its first runway collection with the platform for the Spring/Summer 2024 season. This collaboration with Fashion East underscores the brand's rising influence and its commitment to pushing the boundaries of contemporary menswear.

SOS SKYN

SOS SKYN is a distinctive clothing label that emerged from the collaborative art practice of artist Samara Scott and curator Tayah Leigh Barrs. The brand's identity is deeply rooted in themes of translucency and liquidity, where each garment becomes an exploration of texture and form. Their work is described as "low-fi couture," with every piece meticulously handmade in their studio by the Dover sea in the UK. SOS SKYN's approach is borderless, embracing transience and movement, and their designs are characterized by a unique blend of gelatinous and opaque qualities that challenge traditional fashion norms.

The label is also known for its innovative use of materials, drawing from Scott's signature techniques to create garments that are both experimental and environmentally conscious. By incorporating salvaged and organic materials such as glistening rubbers, silicones, stretch elastics, eco resins, and satin latex, SOS SKYN reimagines fetishism in a way that is both avant-garde and deeply tactile. The commitment to reconditioning fabrics further underscores the brand's dedication to sustainability, making each piece not just a garment but a work of art.

Kitty Shukman

Kitty Shukman is a visionary footwear designer who seamlessly blends spirituality, folklore, magic, mental health, and streetwear into her work. Her journey began in 2013 during an Art Foundation year in Falmouth, where she discovered a profound connection to nature. On the Cornish beaches, she collected mussel shells and seaweed to create shoe sculptures, an experience that deeply influenced her design philosophy. Shukman then pursued Footwear Design at Cordwainers London College of Fashion, where she graduated with the prestigious Cordwainers Cup of Excellence in Footwear. Her graduate collection was showcased at London Fashion Week, gaining recognition in Jeanie Annan Lewin’s curated space for emerging designers.

Following her graduation, Shukman joined Yeezy as a concept footwear designer, where she honed her craft through experimentation and a love for sculpture. Her standout designs include the Derrick Rose sneaker, inspired by the intricate carvings of a fallen tree, and the viral YEEZY puffy boots and slides, which originated from her playful manipulation of plasticine. After three years at Yeezy, she transitioned to consultancy work, collaborating with high-profile brands such as Burberry, Balenciaga, Crocs, and Justin Bieber. Among her innovative creations is the first fully compostable plastic slide, developed with bio materials company Balena, drawing inspiration from twisted branches she encountered during a spiritual retreat in Snowdonia. Shukman also designed the viral 3D printed heel for Giorgia Presti’s CSM MA graduate collection, further cementing her reputation as a designer who pushes the boundaries of footwear design.

LOUTRE

LOUTRE, a London-based clothing brand, stands out for its conscious design ethos, drawing inspiration from the city's gritty and tenacious spirit. The brand's collections feature skewed proportions, billowing silhouettes, and intricate details that define each garment. These baggy fits are a nod to founder Pia Schiele's formative years, where she was immersed in skate culture and developed her design narrative through thrifted and self-crafted styles. This unique blend of influences has become a hallmark of LOUTRE's identity.

Founded in 2018, LOUTRE is deeply committed to sustainability, reimagining materials with an environmentally conscious approach. The brand excels in using upcycled deadstock to create distinctive shirts, sweaters, pants, and jackets, ensuring each piece is one-of-a-kind. LOUTRE also sources materials like denim from esteemed Italian mills renowned for their eco-conscious production practices and use of natural organic cotton fibers. Each garment is meticulously crafted in limited quantities within London, reflecting the brand's dedication to sustainability and thoughtful design.

Nuba

Nuba, co-directed by Cameron Williams and Jebi Labembika, is a menswear brand that captures the journey of young individuals navigating the space between their cultural heritage and urban life. Raised in South London with Afro-Caribbean and West African roots, their backgrounds deeply influence their approach to design and storytelling, offering a voice to those seeking a harmonious identity that blends the diverse influences of city life with their ancestral heritage.

Nuba aims to infuse a youthful, respectful interpretation of cultural heritage into the realm of Western classical elegance. The brand reimagines the styles once embodied by their parents, who, due to displacement, had to adapt their traditions to new environments. This adaptation is expressed through the sons of these parents, who find common ground in their shared experiences. Nuba captures this ongoing journey within their communities, embracing the beauty of unfinished-ness and resisting the pressure to conform entirely to a single cultural identity.

Each brand brings a unique perspective, from Shinder’s subversion of hypermasculine norms to SOS SKYN’s artistic reimagining of materiality, LOUTRE’s commitment to sustainable design, Nuba’s cultural narrative, and Shukman’s visionary footwear. Set against the backdrop of The Truman Brewery and supported by Nike, the event on September 13th promises to be a significant moment for the fashion world, highlighting the fresh voices and innovative visions shaping the future of style.