PFW SS25: Dries Van Noten, A Love Letter To Chaos And Change

As Paris Fashion Week continues to shine, the Dries Van Noten SS25 collection has emerged as one of the most talked-about moments of the season—and for good reason. With the iconic designer officially stepping down this past June, the anticipation for the brand’s first show without its namesake at the helm was palpable. The result? A breathtaking blend of nostalgia, experimentation, and just the right amount of chaos.

This runway was a turning point, both for the house of Dries Van Noten and the fashion world at large. As the lights dimmed in a moody Parisian warehouse, the collection felt almost like a love letter to the designer’s legacy—reinterpreted for a new era, with his characteristic play on contrasts and patterns ever-present. The runway was set, not just for the clothes, but for a symbolic passing of the torch from Dries himself to his trusted design team.

One thing’s for sure: while Dries may not have physically designed every stitch of this collection, his spirit was sewn into every look. As one of the last of the independent designers, his absence hits different—this isn’t just a changing of the guard, but a metamorphosis.

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Instagram @gabsposted

Instagram @gabsposted

Instagram @driesvannoten

The collection was a masterclass in the unexpected. Classic Van Noten signatures—vibrant jewel tones, intricate florals, and clashing prints—dominated, but there was a new kind of elegance that pulsed through the line. Think oversized floral jacquard knit vests paired with crinkly cropped pants or satin slip dresses layered with pinstriped blazers. The juxtaposition of structured masculinity with soft, romantic textures felt familiar yet newly invigorated. An 80s vibe ran through the collection like a live wire, with shoulder pads and sharply tailored silhouettes giving us power dressing, but with a twist. Deconstructed blazers, silky tap pants, and slinky slip dresses peeked out from underneath, adding a layer of seductive rebellion. It was a balancing act between utility and decadence—rugged meets refined. It’s very “Dries,” but with a modern edge that hints at what the future holds for the brand. The standout piece for me? A marigold lace bandeau under a khaki blouson jacket—undoubtedly a nod to the new generation of fashion lovers who are obsessed with mixing high fashion and streetwear.

The setting of the show—a warehouse with wooden chairs and dim lighting—added to the mood of quiet rebellion. There was an undercurrent of tension: tradition clashing with innovation, past meets future. The colour palette swirled with muted earth tones, disrupted by vibrant bursts of iridescent greens and blues. Leopard print clashed with floral patterns; python met lace. And the beauty? Makeup was playful and bold, with coloured mascara and dipped pink hair that felt refreshingly rebellious.

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Instagram @driesvannoten

Instagram @driesvannoten

Instagram @gabsposted

Instagram @gabsposted

But with all this brilliance, there were subtle signs of change. Lingerie-inspired looks—like sheer blouses and slip dresses—offered a delicate softness not often associated with Van Noten’s typical work. They signaled a shift towards the trends of today, as the design team gently infused their own sensibilities into the collection. Will this be the new face of Dries Van Noten? Time will tell.

In many ways, the Spring/Summer 2025 collection was both an homage and a departure. It honored the foundations Dries Van Noten laid with his visionary blending of Eastern and Western aesthetics while giving us glimpses into a future that may surprise even the most die-hard Dries fans.