Dreaming Eli AW24: "Dead Woman Talks Back"

Dreaming Eli's Autumn-Winter 2024 collection unveils a haunting narrative through its campaign, "Dead Woman Talks Back." This season, the brand delves into the complex and often tragic intersection of female desire, societal judgement, and the romanticised notion of death in Victorian culture. The collection tells the story of women who, in their pursuit of love and passion, are metaphorically dragged to their demise—a poignant reflection on the dangers of unchecked lust in a society that views female sexuality as a pathway to ruin.

In this dark tale, female desire is equated with death. "SEX IS DEATH" becomes the chilling mantra, echoing the beliefs of a Victorian Christian society that condemned women for embracing their sexuality. The collection taps into the heart-wrenching position of women in an era where both men and God judged them harshly, reducing them to mere aesthetic objects to be admired only in their downfall. This theme is further underscored by the Victorian ideal that "Death is the Mother of Beauty," a notion deeply rooted in the era's poetry and art, where the beauty of young women was often intertwined with the tragic allure of their mortality.

The collection itself is a delicate dance between soft femininity and a dark, romantic edge. Signature corsetry, low-swung bows in the hair, and intricate detailing all exude a sense of fragile beauty. However, this softness is juxtaposed with bolder elements—glossy latex and sheer 8-denier hosiery—that hint at the darker undercurrents of the narrative. Each piece in the collection is meticulously crafted, embodying a tension between innocence and the sinister forces that threaten it.

Photographed by Joseph Delaney at the gothic St. Cyprian's Church, the campaign encapsulates the mood of Dreaming Eli's AW24 collection. The church's imposing interior, bathed in the glow of candlelight, serves as the perfect backdrop for this exploration of dark romanticism. Drawing inspiration from Deborah Turbeville’s evocative work, the campaign creates a powerful visual narrative where the reverence of the space and the models' performances converge to tell a story not of submission, but of empowerment. The church, often a symbol of judgement and moral authority, is transformed into a stage for these fallen women to reclaim their narrative, to speak back to the society that condemned them.

In "Dead Woman Talks Back," Dreaming Eli offers a collection that is as much about the clothes as it is about the story they tell—a tale of beauty, desire, and the ultimate struggle for empowerment in the face of overwhelming societal constraints.