Bianca Saunders Does Analogue Summer Style for SS22

Bianca Saunders returns to LFW with her fifth collection, fresh off the heels of her ANDAM win. This season, the RCA alum treats us to a meticulously softened reimagining of men’s tailoring. Reprising her signature detail-oriented take on classic silhouettes, Saunders’ references came from a trip taken by her mother to Jamaica, aged 18.

Inspired by the simple duality in her reference imagery and by the juxtaposition of casual wear and tailoring, Saunders very much designs with the body in mind, “ I was […] thinking about muscle men, with prints distorted as if stretched over their bodies, and arm shapes curved round”. The result is a sleek, nostalgic collection supported by muted tones and a crisp eye for detailing.

If Saunders interprets her source material with such flair, it is because the designer is no stranger to the process. As such, she has curated a body of work that celebrates both her Jamaican heritage and the various notions of masculinity that can be found within the West Indies. But perhaps the difference this season is a marked shift towards a cleaner silhouette, in which newer elements such as the trompe l'oeil details of a flattened sleeve go hand in hand with some of the designer’s more recognisable features such as the rolled shoulder.

This shift in perspective comes about as Saunders is tipped as one of the nine finalists for the prestigious LVMH award. Perhaps to no surprise, the designer was nominated and supported by an open vote and, despite not taking home the prize, Bianca Saunders nonetheless has seen a rise not only as a brand but as an influential London creative.

Despite this, Saunders maintains a bright and lighthearted accent on her work and succeeds in creating a vision that is carefully manipulated, unselfconscious and fresh.