Back In Time: SB Dunk Edition

Origin Story: Basketball

The SB Dunk sits comfortably next to the Air Force 1 and Air Jordan as one of Nike's most iconic silhouettes. But we can't get into the SB Dunk without talking about the Dunk High!

In 1985, Nike debuted their Dunk High - a name clearly hinting at what would be its origins in the realm of hoops. The high-top basketball shoe was crafted to lean heavily into college basketball culture, forming the cornerstone of their successful marketing campaign under the slogan "Be true to your school".

Of all Nike-sponsored college basketball teams, the Universities of Iowa, George Town, Kentucky, Michigan, Nevada LV, St. Johns and Syracuse were 'chosen ones' for the Nike Dunk High College pack. Nothing screams loyalty more than each of them having customized Dunk Highs decked out in their team colours... and hey, it's even better that fans could grab a pair as well!

But, like many rises, a downfall followed in due course. Vibrant colours and initial hype simply weren't enough to keep it around.

Revamp: Skate Scene

What was once a basketball shoe, soon belonged to the ramps and boards of skaters. During the 90s, you'd find Dunk Highs sitting in flea markets and thrift shops, where skaters developed a fondness for them. Embracing their so-called 'rebellious' nature, what basketball fans discarded, became the latest trend for skaters.

As skateboarding grew in popularity, so did Nike's desire to be more immersed in that community. However, they initially struggled to connect with its culture. It was time for changes to be made. The Dunk Low Pro B was released in 1999 exclusively for the West Coast and Japan to serve as regional experiments. The new silhouette, modified into a low-top design, incorporated enhanced durability and improved traction to cater to skaters. Needless to say, the regional experiment was a success.

2002 made it official and Nike SB became a subsidiary of Nike, dedicated to the skate community. Under the leadership of the late Sandy Bodecker, an emphasis was put on making further alterations so the shoe was solely devoted to skateboarders. This resulted in the Dunk Low Pro SB - which maintained the fat tongue and elastic straps, whilst introducing new features such as sock liners, extra padding on the insole and a Zoom Air Unit in the heel.

The Dunk Low Pro SB was released in March 2002 as a collaboration with four signature skaters who were recruited as the first members of the SB skate team. As pictured above Danny Supasirirat, Gino Iannucci, Reese Forbes and Richard Mulder were each given their signature shoe in the "Colors By" series.

This ignited the spark of many notorious partnerships that would unfold with the SB Dunks, extending beyond skaters to include skate shops like Chocolate Skateboards and Zoo York - where the designs "stretch past aesthetics and into tribute".

The Nike x Supreme Black/White Cement collab accelerated its momentum, generating immense hype for both brands with its limited stock of 500 pairs and bold use of the 'elephant' AJ3 print.

In 2005 Jeff Staple's pigeon dunk was released as part of the "City Pack". Between riots breaking out and making front-page news, it's still considered one of their most infamous SB Dunk collabs.

Once again, Nike overproduced their weird and whacky collabs and ended up shelving the SB Dunk due to its decline in popularity.

Back to Life: 2020

Let's knock off a couple of years and explore the moments leading up to 2020.

By 2015, enough dust had settled for Nike to reintroduce the original "Be True To Your School" collection, aka BTTYS. While there may have been a few eager enthusiasts wanting to get their hands on a pair for nostalgic sake - the initial performance was underwhelming.

Fast forward two years and Nike SB has teamed up with Comme des Garçons, unveiling their partnership at the CDG Men's show during Paris Fashion Week - helping introduce the subdivision to a new audience.

However, the year 2020 allowed the SB Dunks to begin making a mark in both skateboard and sneaker communities again, as we saw an abundance of collaborations that rekindled the love for SB Dunks. From Strangelove and Travis Scott to the Chunky Dunky and Grateful Dead releases, the year was brimming with memorable designs - as always, these projects continued to skilfully blend homage with crazy creativity.

Even though Nike continues to face a double-edged sword with their oversaturation and exclusivity, they are showing no signs of slowing down as they continue giving the people what they want.

The SB Dunks have always evolved beyond their athletic origin as a lifestyle staple, embraced by many to enhance their style. Hopefully, the Nike SB subsidiary continues to navigate successfully, avoiding another period of being side-lined.