Ahluwalia AW22 - A Cinematic Poem

How does one infuse three nationalities into one clothing collection? Priya Ahluwalia does it with energy, sensuality, boldness, and fun. Her first physical show since the pandemic, AW22 ready-to-wear is an ode to the cross continental films that made an impression in her repertoire and ever expanding creative web.

Ahluwalia is Indian and Nigerian with firm British roots and a passion for music, art, film, dance, and of course fashion. Her past collections have dug deep into references ranging from the UK Garage scene to the Harlem Renaissance. Multi talented, she uses various art forms to bridge differences and celebrate her rich heritage.

With no less than 5 films under her belt post pandemic and a renewed passion for cinema as an art form, it was only natural that AW22 would be a homage to the drama and romance of Bollywood and Nollywood.

Joyfully playing with mixed cultural cues, the collection features feminine 90s sets, ruched coral accents, printed posters of movies, replete with tartan and checks. We see blazer and trouser sets perfectly cut with the emblematic Ahluwalia wave in velours and tie dye. Streetwear merges with sports and high fashion, with Nigerian storytelling referencing the suave aesthetic of Games Women Play and Abuja Ladies. Silky fushia on a ruched rust dress evokes glamor, “Bollywood movies are visually stunning, they're romantic, they're euphoric and they're focused on this dream ideal”.

As well as materializing underrepresented cultural references, Ahluwalia furthers an inherently sustainable agenda. Her clothes are made exclusively with surplus, recycled, and post consumer fabrics in female owned factories. Launched at the COP26 last year, the brand leveraged the power of technology and partnered with Microsoft to create a platform that crowdsources unwanted garments from across the UK. It is unsurprising then, that she was one of the joint winners of the LVMH prize in 2020, received the Leaders of Change award under the Environment category at The Fashion Awards in 2021, and was given The Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design in the same year.

Ultimately, Alhuwalia lucidly reminds us that fashion is political. And as with anything political, many fields cross pollinate, intersect, and enrich one another. Past collaborations with Mulberry have exemplified this through short films exploring the community, culture and history around Black and Brown hair. Although London Fashion Week lacked major players such as Burberry and Victoria Beckham, it certainly set the stage for upcoming designers such as Alhuwalia. Shining front and center were a roster of young creatives with a definite agenda, setting the city apart in terms of diversity.

With undeniable charm, Priya Ahluwalia refuses to be defined by one element of her craft. London is brimming with fresh, international talent and Ahluwalia AW22 demonstrates the multidimensional nature of heritage, ethics, and design.

Words by Pooja Lucie Willmann

24/02/2022