Henry Tuppen

A Journey through the Frenzied Spectacle of London Fashion Week

The world of London Fashion Week is a mesmerising realm of glitz, glamour, and boundless creative brilliance. It's a world where beautiful people and even more beautiful clothes take centre stage. Yet, seldom do we hear about the hectic hustle and bustle that unfolds backstage—the shouting, the controlled chaos, and the authoritarian efficiency of the PR teams orchestrating it all. I found myself relishing every moment of this frenzied spectacle.

The excitement, the stress, and the sheer pandemonium that envelop this week are beyond belief. More than the stunning collections that grace the runway, it's the intricate tapestry of fashion, creativity, and organized bedlam that truly captures the essence of London Fashion Week. And, to my delight, I had the privilege of stepping into this wild world, witnessing it first-hand.

Arriving at my first show was an intimidating experience. I couldn't help but feel out of place amidst the sartorial royalty that surrounded me. My outfit seemed inadequate by comparison, but any reservations I had were swiftly overshadowed by the sheer joy of being part of such a prestigious occasion. But, enough about my emotions; let me give you a glimpse of the brilliance that unfolded before me.

The first show I attended was hosted by FJ Talents, a remarkable organization that serves as a platform for the brightest and most exciting designers emerging from Taiwan's Fu Jen University. This showcase featured four designers, each presenting an incredible collection. While the entire show was a weekend highlight, two designers managed to shine even in this exceptional field.

Chiang Wen Hsuan of “8c” undoubtedly stole the show with her remarkable collection. As a history enthusiast, I was a big fan of her ingenious use of metallic accents in her knitwear. She seamlessly blended the flowing elegance of loose knit garments with what appeared to be chainmail, creating bold and striking contrasts. The metalwork blended so seamlessly with the collection that one could be forgiven for mistaking it for pure wool, if not for the gentle, rhythmic clinking of the chainmail elements as models walked the runway. The consistency in styling and the clear design direction allowed her to harmoniously blend diverse inspirations, drawing from classic rock aesthetics, traditional Taiwanese tailoring, and beachy bohemian knitwear. Oversized leather jackets intermingled with shimmering tight dresses and loose, flowing jumpers, creating a captivating fashion symphony.

The second standout from the FJ Talents show was Chen You Chen's "97.00005" collection. Her designs intricately explored the interplay between individuals and the world around them. Known for her meticulous deconstruction and layer-by-layer reimagining of traditional looks, Chen presented a collection filled with unique, unconventional, and eye-catching layered pieces. Her innovative take on traditional suiting, using irregular materials and silhouettes, set her apart from the crowd.

The following day, I attended Felix Bendish's "Fierce Momentum" SS24 show. Bendish's collection was undeniably fierce, embodying unapologetic self-expression. He wove together a rich tapestry of fabrics, featuring digital prints, intricate embroidery, and three-dimensional elements. While the collection was bold and playful, it occasionally veered towards the tacky and juvenile. The collection was said to be inspired by the indomitable power of women, aiming to highlight their experiences through the ages, yet the message wasn't entirely clear in the pieces showcased. He also stated that in his eye’s women were akin to crocodiles which was slightly strange, and it felt very poetic that a collection celebrating women’s lives in a world dominated by men was created by a man.

On my final day, I had the pleasure of attending the SFA runway show. SFA Runway, established in 2017, was dedicated to promoting the work of Arabian designers. The show was a stunning fusion of traditional Arabian clothing expertly combined with modern elements. It showcased a selection of traditional silhouettes while daringly incorporating a wide array of unconventional materials.

London Fashion Week is more than couture; it's an immersive experience where chaos and creativity collide, leaving an enduring impression of artistic brilliance, one I am itching to witness again.